THE BORDERS OF THE UNITED STATES ... 2014
PART ONE ... THE NORTHERN TIER 6.24-7.3.14
Day 1 - Tuesday - 6.24.14 Starting toward Canada in Minnesota ..
Str Cty : Home Str Mls : 45023
End Cty : Chippewa Falls End Mls : 45256
Dly Mls : 225 Miles Tot Mls : 225 Miles
Time : 4 Hours Notes : 30 m rain
225 miles in 4 hours - the Dells, Hwy 13 to Wisconsin Rapids, Vesper-Auburndale to Marshfield at 10-13, north to Colby to 29 west to Thorpe where it rained on me for 1/4 hours before stopping. I started in dairy land farming. Then above the Dells I went thru the 75 mile sand belt of Wisconsin which supports cranberry and potato farming and factory farm conifers for pulp wood. Finally, at Wisconsin Rapids the terrain changed to leafy-trees-surrounded grain fields and dairy farming, which continued all the way to Chippewa. Could not get a room on the Reservation at the HIX in Chippewa Falls through the 800# so I called the motel - no room! .... Stopped at the HIX when I got near and was given a room... To dry out in..next to a Culver's... The bike seat I choose was the one which gave me the most ground contact, unlike the seat on my eastern trip. However, this seat is not as comfortable..had cramps in both legs, and pain in my lumbar, back and shoulders. After getting wet I sat better. Tomorrow will be the proof of the pudding... Go home or go on. Muscle relaxants and pain meds. Mild side seizures... Out riding while Marnie trims our bushes and trees.
Day 2 - Wednesday - 6.25.14 Into MN - within 100 miles of Canada
Str Cty : Chippewa Falls Str Mls : 45256
End Cty : Iron Mt, MN End Mls : 45597.0
Dly Mls : 324 Miles Tot Mls : 549 Miles
Time : 5.5 Hours Notes : cold
324 miles (549 total) in 5.5 hours in the cold. Left in overcast, but luckily not rain, and kept adding clothes. Rode hwy 53 on the four lane, passing a road killed bear on the berm. The area north increasingly is forest and I passed a huge frack sand shipping facility. Entered Superior and Duluth mid morning. I stopped to walk around the Aerostitch store and warm up. On up #61 along Lake Superior.. Got to the turn and it began to warm on MN #1 toward Ely at noon less than 100 miles from Canada. I stopped for breaks in Isabella and Ely. Ely is 5500 population and a well organized town, however, summer is limited there. Rode on to the Quad cities - Mountain Iron, sir (Iron Mountain is in MI), Virginia and 2 others. There was a major rally against imported dumped steel and needing support for the US market. I think most of my pain is interaction of cold and arthritis, not the bike seat..rode better today..tomorrow? Passed the largest dredge bucket I have ever seen, including at oil sands.. Rode to a viewing area where it is 500 feet to the water from the surrounding land and 350 feet deep water, several miles long and 1/2 mile wide, mined out in '72. Rode around each town and pancakes at Perkins. Marnie is jealous.
Day 3 - Thursday - 6.26.14 Go USA... Moving west on the tier into ND
Str Cty : Iron Mt, MN Str Mls : 45597.0
End Cty : Minot, ND End Mls : 46117
Dly Mls : 476 Miles Tot Mls : 1025 Miles
Time : 7 Hours
Leaving the Mesabi Iron Range region of the American state of Minnesota is a major production area of Taconite. Taconite is a variety of iron formation, an iron-bearing (> 15% iron) sedimentary rock... The taconite pellets are hauled by railroad to the ports of Silver Bay, Two Harbors and the Twin Ports of Duluth, Minnesota and Superior, Wisconsin, all on Lake Superior... On- 476 and 1025 miles to Minot ND. North to ND Hwy 2 to ride in the Red Lake Reservation and along the lake and river of the Red Lake name. Looked as expected with few services. Along the River were vast fields/swamps filled with cattails. Rode BIA roads x the reservation and then county roads to Fargo. Little is planted or to be planted, except along the River was flat, black moist ground with grain starting. Stopped for gas in Thief River Falls - it is a beautiful little town worth moving to. In North Dakota the crops are high and wheat is 3 weeks from harvest. At 2pm I stopped in Devils Lake where I was going to stay, but wanted to keep riding and the "warning stop" ... Went thru Rugby ND, the geographic center of North America, and two weeks ago I went thru the center of the US. ---- Stopped at 82 mph by radar - told him I deserved a "warning", so I got one. Chicken and salad, over-priced. The seat was better and the pain was tolerable today.
Day 4 - Friday - 6.27.14 Into Montana.. Or .. Into the rain. Flat.flat.flat
Str Cty : Minot, ND Str Mls : 46117
End Cty : Havre, MT End Mls : 46578.0
Dly Mls : 433 Miles Tot Mls : 1457 Miles
Time : 6.45 Hours Notes : washed bike
Up to a wet area and thick overcast...however, the weather is moving north so maybe it will move up as I move west. Rode thru the Baaken Oil fields ...filthy..dirt..rain..mud the 1st 150 miles, so the bike was dirty.. The road is filthy, every vehicle is filthy and most of the people are filthy. There were several temporary camps for oil workers with rental rooms for displaced workers who would otherwise not have a place to live. A weekly long term place advertised a room for 699$ per week. These first 250 miles where high plains with huge wheat fields..It appears they use fallowing instead of crop rotation to revive the soil. I passed thru the Fort Peck Sioux and the Fort Belkamp Reservations and explored several of the towns as I passed. 433 miles and 1457 overall to Havre, Montana. The motel gave me a hose and washing material to wash my bike - will feel better getting it on in the am. Prime rib dinner before a tour of the small town. Havre is a rail center and train repair shop with about 9300 people. The town has UM Northern and seems very prosperous.
Day 5 - Saturday - 6.28.14 ... to Cut Bank where the plains meet the Rockies
Str Cty : Havre, MT Str Mls : 46578
End Cty : Sandpoint/ Ponderay ID End Mls : 47037
Dly Mls : 459 Miles Tot Mls : 1917 Miles
Time : 7 Hours Notes : 4x rained upon
Couldn't find my change bag this am- not in clothes, in room (tore it apart) or at motel desk..went to my bike to load and found it in another jacket...oh! Left in warm sunshine to ride the Hi-Line, which no one could explain to me other than it is an area along Hwy 2 and a string of towns. Passed antelope lying in a fallow field. All the ag was huge wheat fields with a few cattle. There were several huge yellow fields of blooming Saffron. I was riding into very little wind when it began to build strongly..and to my surprise there was an electric fan farm next to me.. 10 miles down the road there was little wind again... Someone did a good study of the wind potential in the area. Passed thru the Blackfoot tribe Reservation just before Glacier NP. The road in the park is still not open due to snow last week so I stayed south on #2. Immediately as I went into the mountains it started to rain and it rained all the way thru the mountains...the sun was shining in Kellaspell. I crossed the Continental Divide (10th) on the south of Glacier NP for the 6 th time this summer. I headed up into the Kootenai River area, followed the River from small to huge and arrived at Bonners Ferry 15 miles from Canada, before heading south to Sandpoint- Ponderay, Idaho. Drenched 4 times today in 459 miles in 7 hours, 1917 total. 1 more day to the coast...
Day 6 - Sunday - 6.28.14 .... Thru TWISP and to the great NW
tr Cty : Ponderay , ID Str Mls : 47037
End Cty : Lacey - Olympia, OR End Mls : 47575
Dly Mls : 528 Miles Tot Mls : 2445 Miles
Time : 9 Hours Notes : Cascade mountains
Met Jeff and Sally Donahe, from Owatona, MN, who were returning from Canada. We visited at length over breakfast. Left in sunny warmth at 8am on Hwy 2 until I picked up 20 along the Pen D' Oreille River which flows into the Columbia River then turned north within 20 miles from Canada. Crossed the Columbia somewhere and went into the first set of mountains for some rain and hail. Rode thru the Kalispel Indian Reservation and had coffee at their information station. Rode to 97 and then back on 20 to Twisp, my favorite-named town... Ate Mexican lunch and got back on the road. As I started toward Twisp on 20, I passed huge tent orchards of sweet cherries...bird prevention covers. However, I found a new neat name: TUNK.. which is the name for a mountain. I had passed thru the eastern mountains in rain to 5500' and the sun with dry warmth in the #97 valley north of Chalen, where Beebe apple orchards are located. After Twisp I entered the Cascade Mountains and went over 5500 several times and 4400 many times....Rained every 15 minutes. Finally, I arrived at I-5 at Arlington. All 400 miles were in beautiful pine forest and thru hilly to mountainous terrain. These last 600 miles are a ride worth doing again.. Always places to go back to!
END OF THE NORTHERN TIER
PART TWO. .....Starting the Western Column. ...
Rode 100 miles south down I-5 at 70 mph to Lacey-Olympia for HIX overnite. Tomorrow I shall end Washington and get on Hwy 12 and head east toward home.
I rode the next section from here to Santa Cruz last summer so here are the notes for that section.
Day 15 - Monday - 7.8.13... on to Mt St. Helens and Portland
STR CTY: YAKIMA, WA
STR MLS: 34437
END CTY: PORTLAND, OR
END MLS: 34722
DLY MLS: 266 MILES
TOT MLS: 5012 MILES
TIME : 6 HOURS
NOTES : HUSTON’S
Up at 6 and trying to make contact with Huston’s. Finally found Alka Seltzer cough and cold so cold symptoms are mitigated. Called Russell and cannot get my seat worked on in Shasta Lake, CA – “NO”. Left at 8 on Hwy 12 for 50 miles going over White Pass at 4500'. I went 25 miles on 131 to the turn off for a great view of Mount Rainier.. Along the road were beautiful flowers wherever the sunlite could get thru the unusually dense forest...close, tall, interlaced trees.
Up FS99 for 15 miles one gets varying views of Mt St Helens......Along the way you see thousands of blown down trees all laying tops away from Helens and no soil - burned to the bedrock. I went back to Hwy 25 and rode 100 miles to Portland and our friends, Dick and Evie Huston. I could not rouse them on the phone but they seemed delighted when I showed out of thin air...nice talk of current life and history together from IU and when we visited their beach house hunting razor clams. Am at HIexp for the nite.
Day 16 - Tuesday - 7.9.13 .... out to the Pacific coast
STR CTY: PORTLAND, OR S
TR MLS: 34738
END CTY: COOS BAY, OR
END MLS: 35122
DLY MLS: 384 MILES
TOT MLS: 5396 MILES
TIME : 7.75 HOURS
NOTES : COLD
First up the Columbia River gorge for a look on Hwy 14. The scenery after 50 miles was not too dramatic, except to look up the river at one point. So, I turned back and moved on to Astoria, Oregon at the mouth to the Columbia River (where Lewis and Clark camped). This put me on Hwy 101 heading south. Periodically I got good views of the Pacific Ocean and the immediate terrain. Great forests! It was cold all day, sometimes sunny and cloudy at other times, it was always cold. This was a hard ride as the road wound and wandered, up and down- the pace changed frequently due to small towns, slow drivers and slow speed controls. Finally, I got to Coos Bay for the nite after 384 miles in 7.75 hours and 5200+ overall. Shoulders and back good even in tough driving conditions. Almost dropped my bike last eve but a guy helped me and saved my shoulders.
Day 17 - Wednesday - 7.10.13 ...on toward San Francisco
STR CTY: COOS BAY, OR
STR MLS: 35122
END CTY: FORT BRAGG, CA
END MLS: 35508
DLY MLS: 368 MILES
TOT MLS: 5764 MILES
TIME : 8 HOURS
NOTES : COLD +HOT
Up at 6:30 to get to Fort Bragg, CA HIexp. Got to ride the coast on 101 with continued views of the Pacific not readily available yesterday- beautiful. Cold and clear. All of a sudden fog....and cold - freezing! I was riding the "Highway of Redwoods" thru several groves on the bypass- Drugy Scenic Parkway. Then a long period to the Rockefeller Forest and the "Avenue of the Giants". The trees are so huge and close together- to say nothing about the amazing height. I had dinner with two grads working for the CA forest service marking and putting for bid state pine and redwoods. As I proceeded down the Avenue the temperature rose from 50s to 98 degrees... Hot.. hot... so I stripped down. Then I hit CA #1 which goes up to 1800' over the Coastal Range mountains and down to sea level ....and the temperature fell to the 40s....cold... freezing..adding clothes. I then hit the coast again and the foggy views were coldly beautiful.... Arrived to heat my room and rest.. Nice but demanding ride in the Coastal Range and in the Redwoods. Dinner at a bar with calzone, with WW points. 368 miles in 8 hours of gawking.
Day 18 - Thursday - 7.11.13. San Francisco and the Wharf (for free)
STR CTY: FORT BRAGG,CA
STR MLS: 35508
END CTY: SAN FRANCISCO, CA
END MLS: 35715
DLY MLS: 194 MILES
TOT MLS: 5958 MILES
TIME : 5.25 HOURS
NOTES . 176 + 20 miles in SF
After the weather changes and thinking about crossing the desert from San Diego to Austin, I have decided to change directions. I will go from San Francisco to Grand Junction CO, crossing Nevada and Utah in the central areas but far north of the southern route. Back into the Rockies I shall go south on the Continental Divide to Santa Fe and Austin, stopping in Oklahoma Dust Bowl areas to give Nook time to clean her apartment. There were many small towns and houses at the ocean which is too rough and cold to interact with- so the import is for scenery and serenity. Was cold and miserable the entire coast. Crossed the Golden Gate….
Up at 6 and left in the cold and moist coastal conditions at 7:15. Rode 176 miles on CA #1. Stopped in Mendocino, the town we visited in '76 and near which we camped in the same kind of weather as today. What a ride...up-down, left-right with many turnouts to save my passing. Eucalyptus and redwoods line the road in some areas and I can still smell the eucalyptus. One stretch required riding 500 feet up from the straight down ocean without guard rails. Views were limited but dramatic. Towns of few people were numerous and closer to SF there was some cattle farming. After some suburb driving I hit the Golden Gate Bridge and entered San Francisco very tired and sore from the very demanding ride in cold weather. After checking in and arranging parking, I took a 20 mile trip around the city and its parks, including the underside of the Oakland Bay Bridge. After complaining about the quality of this facility- no wifi in the rooms, 18 TV stations without MSNBC and the tour, not being told but charged $45 to park my bike, and being refused to, got my free nite back- I walked to the Wharf and ate - had clam chowder & fried calamari. They compted my parking and put some points on my account 25% of a free nite. Over at the cable car the line was a block long and I am not a consummate "waiter" so I moved on after talking with some Swiss people. The number of foreign speakers here is amazing. Nice ride today...one of the best of the trip in spite of the cold. Walked 16 blocks in two slow sessions- one for dinner on the wharf and to see the cable car, and one for Carmel corn. 194 miles in 4 hours to San Francisco.
Day 19 - Friday - 7.12.13 South to Santa Cruz, Yosemite, & NV
STR CTY: SAN FRANCISCO, CA
STR MLS: 35571
END CTY: ELY, NV
END MLS: 36397
DLY MLS: 656 MILES
TOT MLS: 6614 MILES
TIME : 11.5 HOURS
Up and out of here... Good riddance! Paid my ticket to Wyoming...$100.. Started in San Francisco at sea level. Went down CA1 on the Cabarilla Hwy 60 miles to Santa Cruz out of San Francisco and along the ocean. Then East to Merced on 152 for 120 miles thru the truck farm area at 100'. Rode to Mariposa for gas and on to Yosemite National Park at 4200' on Hwy# 140. Cold to SC and then very hot until 7000'. Leaving the valley I climbed to over 9800'. Then down to Mariposa from 8100' for gas before starting across the high desert above 5k' on 120. This is the area where we backpacked to 10k'+ in the late '70s with the Downing’s. Picked up gas in Lee Vining on 120 and Tonopha while riding 300 miles of high desert on route 6. 13 miles from Ely it started to rain for about 5 miles and on arrival I met Hwy 50 (same as thru Salem WV). On the road I saw two does and four fawn’s, all with very dark, thick hair which made the fawn’s white spots stand out. They ran down the road with me until they figured out where mom was and doubled back. At the Ramada Inn in Ely at 6000 feet after 654 miles in 11.5 hours and 6670 total miles so far. Very comfortable above 7k'.
TO BE CONTINUED ....
Heading home :
Day 7 - Monday- 6.30.14 Heading east toward home..
Str Cty : Lacey, OR Str Mls : 47575
End Cty : Lewiston,ID End Mls : 48000
Dly Mls : 394 Miles Tot Mls : 2839 Miles
Time : 6.5 Hours Notes : sun warm
first day of sunshine, warmth and no rain as I left at 8:00. Rode 40 miles south on I-5 to catch Hwy #12 and to turn east. Great road and travelled quickly thru the Cascades rising to 4500' in White Pass. Beautiful forest and mountains. I could see Rainer and St Helens at differing times..this is Rainer looking back to the west. When out of the mountains I entered Yakima and proceeded up the Yakima River Valley. This area is irrigated fruit orchards and vegetable fields. The valley was green and the hills on either side were dry brown. When I left the valley I went into dry country with huge, huge wheat fields on every contour and angle.. Harvest is near but I do not know how they put machines on the side hills. Every village along the way looked prosperous and few buildings on the main streets were empty -especially, Waitsburg. Crossed the Columbia and Snake Rivers again. At Lewiston and Clarkson there is a loading harbor for barges. Looks like wheat and wood products (saw dust and chips) are loaded here and sent down the Snake to come to join the Columbia at Kennewick and then to Astoria. At HIX Lewiston. Bad day at the Supreme bullshit Court. Saw elk from a distance..standing in a wheat field.
Day 8 - Tuesday - 7.1.14 Back into Montana as far as reasonable...
Str Cty : Lewiston,ID Str Mls : 48000
End Cty : Miles City, MT End Mls : 47708
Dly Mls : 681 Miles Tot Mls : 3521 Miles
Time : 10.5 Hours
681 miles for 3521 total. Lewiston thru LoLo pass along the Clearwater River at 4500', then to the Continental Divide at 6400' ( 11th crossing this year), and finally high on the prairie at 5900' before leveling out and gradually coming down to 1300 '. It took 160 miles for a very gradual rise to 3900' in Lolo along side the Clearwater River... while undulating in the bare hills to lush forests and closed canyons. Out in the high prairie the predominate crop was grass for hay and cattle. Arrived at 8:30 PM in time to have 1/2 slab of ribs at a favorite restaurant. Miles City is on the Yellowstone River where it turns north to meet the Missouri about Williston, ND. To bed late and up late.
Day 9 - Wednesday - 7.2.14. To/thru South Dakota again.
Str Cty : Miles City, MT Str Mls : 47708
End Cty : Watertown, SD End Mls : 49218
Dly Mls : 491 Miles Tot Mls : 4012 Miles
Time : 7.5 Hours Notes : tickets
491 miles for a total of 4012. 150 miles to the SD border in time to be stopped by a county mounty who would not warn me... 125$ ticket On the Standing Rock Reservation. Noon in Mobridge, 3 in Roscoe-Ipswich and on to Watertown for the over nite. This a very usual ride which I have so far done 5 times in 2 years... Back again in 2 weeks. To Culver's for dinner. What's the deal with the Yellowstone Trail, started by grandpa and Parmely, as it does not go to the Yellowstone NP.. Actually once it might have been the primary road to get close to the Park. Watertown, SD for the nite.
Day 10 - Thursday - 7.3.14. Home... For dinner...
Str Cty : Watertown, SD Str Mls : 49218
End Cty : HOME End Mls : 49702
Dly Mls : 463 Miles Tot Mls : 4475 Miles
Time : 7.75 Hours
Delightful ... Another 19 mph over in MN... Another ticket on a state road.... Don't know how much yet. Left late and rode cross country from Watertown to New Ulm where I met Hwy 14, which I rode all the way home... Mankato, Rochester, La Crosse, Richland Center and here. 463 miles and 4475 overall by Gps and 4679 by speedo. HOME FOR 9 DAYS....
MILES 4475 GPS 4679 SPEEDO
COSTS TOTAL /MILE /DAY
FUEL 385.36 .83 42.82
ROOM 860.42 .18 95.60
FOOD 196.69 .04 21.85
MISC 225
TOTAL 1667.47 .36 185.27
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