Thursday, July 24, 2014
Trip West to National Parks and Big Horns with brother Paul....
RIDE TO THE NATIONAL PARKS OF THE ROCKIES
JULY 12 - JULY 28.... With Paul ...
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Day 1 - Saturday - 7.12.14. Paul and I ride West to South Dakota ..
Str Cty : Home -Madison Str Mls : 18483
End Cty : Watertown, SD End Mls : 18961
Dly Mls : 484 Miles Tot Mls : 484 Miles
Time : 7.25 Hours Notes : nose/ rain/ lunch Donahes
Start 19483 odd miles. Up early as could not get back to sleep and left at 7 on Hwy 14 to Brookings SD. Got to LaCrosse at 10. Rain from 10 miles east of Rochester to Owatanna and lunch time. Stopped in Owatonna to have lunch with Sally and Jeff Donahe. No rain thereafter and warmer. The crops are at half stage and the countryside looks a healthy green everywhere across WI and MN. At least 3000 mills in a wind farm at the MN-SD border. 484 miles today, ending the last 50 miles at 75 mph. BBQ place.
Day 2 - Sunday - 7.13.14. On to Beebe, SD, ND & into MT
Str Cty : Watertown, SD Str Mls : 18961
End Cty : Miles City, MT End Mls : 19456.0
Dly Mls : 494 Miles Tot Mls : 999 Miles
Time : 8.25 Hours Notes : headwinds
494 miles and 999 total so far. Watertown, to Webster, to Mina Lake, Ipswich, Beebe, Roscoe, Mobridge and thru ND to MT, Miles City. After Webster a strong head wind started and abused us all day to the point of not being able to maintain good speed and had to cover my face with a handkerchief (to fight wind and sun burn). There were thousands of lakes in east SD and all had pelicans on them and there was an enormous bird population. We stopped for a tour of the cottage at Mina lake and Ipswich before going to the Roscoe cemetery to visit g and g - and we figured that based on grandma working in the bank and Elfords moving there before Roscoe was a city, they should have known everyone in the cemetery. Went to the house and Mary Roth (who bought it in '78) gave us a tour and it is in good shape. Had coke at the cafe. No sunflowers after the disease harmed the crop. From Aberdeen to Mobridge, 100 miles, there are 8 new huge grain elevators with their own tracks and 2 ethanol plants. At Oahe lake and Mobridge we transitioned from grain to grassland and from flat to rolling. We climbed to about 3000' as we followed Hwy 12. Later in the west and ND more crops were grown in irregularly shaped fields.The mustard weed was in full bloom and the pastures and hillsides were a mass of yellow. All thru these states the farmers bale the ditches and have huge fields of bales already done. Just before leaving ND we encountered the Bakkan oil southern tail and saw many wells, sometimes with multiple pumps. They get oil from several different directions and put it all in one collection pipeline. We passed the staging area for the Keystone XL pipeline; probably 20 miles worth of pipe where stockpiled there. At the junction of ND-MT there is a badlands about 80 miles south of Roosevelt badlands NP in ND. Arrived in Miles City after 494 miles at 5:30. Ate at the BBQ and Chop house.
Day 3 - Monday - 7.14.14. XX Montana to foot of Glacier NP ...
Str Cty : Miles City, MT Str Mls : 19456.0
End Cty : Great Falls End Mls : 19776
Dly Mls : 323 Miles Tot Mls : 1300 Miles
Time : 5.25 Hours Notes : up at 3am
Awake at 3am worrying about the schedule and exhaustion so I got up at 5 and began to reorganize-schedule by phone. Gained a short day today and next 3 days so our longest rides are less than 350 miles - 14 Great Falls, 15 Browning, 16 Helena or West Yellowstone, 17 Cody..... Feel relieved but sleepy tired. Went thru rolling grassland about 4k' for cattle, hay and wheat on huge acreage with Big Skys. Ride was 323 miles with many stops to wake up and total 1300. Resting all afternoon at HIX in Great Falls. Will ride the Glacier NP roads tomorrow. Mexican dinner.
Day 4 - Tuesday - 7.15.14. To Glacier NP and back to Browning, MT
Str Cty : Great Falls Str Mls : 19776
End Cty : Browning MT End Mls : 20033
Dly Mls : 253 Miles Tot Mls : 1555 Miles
Time : 6 Hours
150 miles to St. Mary's entrance to Glacier NP. Rain
for 25 miles on the way across the high grasslands. The eastern side (Going to the Sun Road) had more than 9 miles of construction mud with three stops for one ways, leading to some frustration. On the way out I thot I saw a black bear but it turned out to be a cow. On the way in we actually saw a Moose Munching in a Meadow...that stopped traffic when I pointed it out to others. Rode over 6k' from Browning (4k') to get to the park and park's Continental Divide Logan Pass is only 6800', (crossings 11 & 12 this year) but getting there is dramatic as one passes St Mary lake and watched the waterfalls wash our bike wheels. On the west side the drop-rise was about the same but more open so one could see the road cut into the walls of the mountain to the top of the pass. 253 miles and 1555 overall. Back at Browning at the HIX on the Blackfeet Reservation. Poor dining at the Casino.
Day 5 - Wednesday 7.16.14 Onto the next Park...YELLOWSTONE
Str Cty : Brovning, MT Str Mls : 20033
End Cty : West Yellowstone, MT End Mls : 20383
Dly Mls : 356 Miles Tot Mls : 1900 Miles
Time : 5.25 Hours
Little sleep but got reservation for here and Buffalo. Left at 8:30 on Hwy 287 south thru huge rolling grass land on the reservations. We saw a Bald Eagle sitting on a fence post.-.most likely hunting. When we hit I15 the terrain changed to small pine-forested mountains. After Helena the terrain changed back to grass lands. We observed (over special pastry of Montana wheat) the source of the Missouri River at Three Forks where the Gallatin, Jefferson, and Madison rivers converge to start the Missouri. The Madison River comes out of Yellowstone on the west. The Yellowstone River comes out the east and meets the Missouri near Williston, ND. Both rivers are in the Atlantic drainage area, but the southwest park is in the Pacific drainage. Rode at 4k' most of the trip and rose to 6800' at WY. Arrived at HI to convert our 319$ room to points (of my 116000) with permission by the manager. Went to Madison Crossing for ribeye-2 moose drool beer dinner and got Paul a planning map. 356 miles and 1900 total to the HI on points in WY.
Day 6 - Thursday - 7.17.14 Two more continental divide crossings (13 & 14).
Str Cty : West Yellowstone, MT Str Mls : 20383
End Cty : Cody, WY End Mls : 20600
Dly Mls : 214 Miles Tot Mls : 2100 Miles
Time : 9 Hours Notes : yellowstone/CJH
Into Yellowstone National Park at 8 for ride to Old Faithful (10:19 -/+ 10 minutes). Bought stickers and ordered things. Surprisingly, we saw no animals til later when we viewed an elk, lots of buffalo at higher elevation, a sow with a cub, and people. After OF's eruption we crossed the CD twice at 6800 feet at the highest. However, we went over 8300 feet at one other pass. Decided to take the long route out the NE entrance and down Chief Joseph Highway. On CJH we rose 2100 from 6k' up to 8100' on the Pass and down 3100' to 5k' and up 15 degrees from 71 to 92 in Cody. Then sprinkles started while we were taking a swim. At the HI for the nite and ate at the hotel cuz of rain. TOUCH THE GEYSER PIC... HI at 221... Ate there.
Day 7 - Friday - 7.18.14 - CJH/Beartooth Pass/Red Lodge/14a.
Str Cty : Cody, WY Str Mls : 20600
End Cty : Buffalo, WY End Mls : 20923
Dly Mls : 323 Miles Tot Mls : 2450 Miles
Time : 6 Hours Notes : 91 deg
Left Cody under 4k' and rode Chief Joseph Highway to 8100'. We turned onto Hwy 212 for the Beartooth Highway and went over 10947' with many other people (rally of crazies in Red Lodge). Above 8k' it was spring and all the miniature flowers were in full bloom, making a carpet of purple, yellow and white in the high meadows. We stopped at a junk store and bought stickers. Stopped in Red Lodge to view the disturbance and have a coke. Then we started down the valley between the Rockies and Big Horns Mountains as the temperature rose to 91 degrees in desert-like conditions. When we turned on to 14a at Lovell we rose over 5k' to 9400' in the Big Horn Mtn pass..and we lost 30 degrees in temperature (61 and chilled). Gradually we lost elevation and warmed as we approached Sheridan and took the expressway to Buffalo, WY. Salad and calamari appetizer for dinner at Winchesters, a nice place cross the street. HIX on points in Buffalo, WY.
Day 8 - Saturday - 7.19.14. On to Colorado and Walden- 2 crossings.
Str Cty : Buffalo, WY Str Mls : 20923
End Cty : Walden, CO End Mls : 21326
Dly Mls : 410 Miles Tot Mls : 2860 Miles
Time : 6.5 Hours Notes : 8100'
Left at 8 at 4k' on 16 to Worland over the Big Horn Mountains and the 9666' Powder River pass before Ten Sleep. A huge flock of sheep were being tended by 4 men and dogs. Then south down to the Wind River Canyon and Indian reservation. Then south on 26 to Riverton and 385 where the winds picked up. Finally 287, I80 and 130-230 to The CO line and Walden. At Walden and 8100' with 80 degrees temp. All afternoon it was in the low 90's with 35+mph cross winds, grinding on us. Our observation, having traveled from NW to SE Wyoming, is that it is mostly desert and only marginally habitable - except where water is available. All that wind and no wind farms for electric..debtor state mentality. 2 Continental Divides between Muddy Gap and Rawlins on Hwy 287 (15 @ 6100+, & 16 @ 7100+'). As we rose to 7k' the temp moderated. In regular motel in Walden, CO. 72$. Prime Rib at rock river place on Main Street.
Day 9 - Sunday - 7.20.14. Estes NP and the Rockies, 2 more crossings.
Str Cty : Walden, CO Str Mls : 21326
End Cty : Torrington, WY End Mls : 21619
Dly Mls : 292 Miles Tot Mls : 3155 Miles
Time : 6.5 Hours Notes : 102 degrees
Left Walden at 7:30 without bkfst and rode south on Hwy 125 crossing the 17th Continental Divide at 9683' in beautiful forest. Alone the grass land ditches were full of purple sage...I plant it, feed it, water it, and smile without as good results. On to Granby Gordon for gas and bkfst and to the Rocky Mountain National Park. The 18th crossing was in the park at 10759'. Then we proceeded up to 12160' above the tree line and we observed elk feeding at this high altitude. Paul hugged the centerline where there was no guard rail and a precipitous drop a thousand feet. We raced down the canyon from Estes Park to Loveland as the temperature rose to the mid 90s - this is the canyon that had the flash flood last year and 1/2 the buildings were lost. Then when we got to I25 it was over 99 degrees for the the next 125 miles, rising to 102 several times. We had the high speed cross winds for the same distance. 292 miles to Torrington, WY and 3155 overall. MickyDees for dinner.
Day 10 - Monday - 7.21.14. ....... To the Black Hills for a tour
Str Cty : Torrington, WY Str Mls : 21615
End Cty : Hill City, SD End Mls : 21871
Dly Mls : 259 Miles Tot Mls : 3410 Miles
Time : 6.5 Hours Notes : tour - black hills
Left Torrington early hoping to avoid heat and cross winds - to no avail. By 8 the temp was 91 and the west wind was 35 knots. We struggled north 100 miles and turned east for 70 miles to Hill City SD by 10:30 at 95 degrees. We then went on a 70mile tour of the Black Hills and Custer state park - initially cooled but then the heat went back into the 90s. Thus we covered 295 miles before we got back to the HIX air conditioning for the afternoon. Saw the buffaloes again.. Ate at a restaurant at a corner - blue cheese burger.
Day 11 - Tuesday - 7.23.14. Toward HOME ON I 90 for 799 miles.
Str Cty : Hill City, SD Str Mls : 21871
End Cty : Home End Mls : 22957
Dly Mls : 795 Miles Tot Mls : 4157 Miles
Time : 11 5 Hours Notes : less than 85 deg
We left Hill City at 7 thinking we would overnite in Alberta Lea or thereabouts... Got poor milage as we were pushing a lot of quartering wind for 300 miles...then relief in the afternoon after we got thru the weather front. The temperature never went above 85 degrees which allowed us to stay refreshed. Got to AL about 4 and decided to push on and by 9:00 we were home. Except I could not get into the house as all doors were locked, including basement and mud room doors. Had to drive over to Paul's to get a key. Relaxed with the news and had peppermint ice cream for dinner. Bed late without making it. Great trip. All roads I had ridden before, but not in sequence with 8 days of dramatic mountain riding and 4 days of pure "get there" riding. Our riding time average speed was 73 mph.
…….the END
Average speed for trip = 61.2 mph Average miles per gallon = 45.2 mpg
GPS miles = 4029 / Bike miles = 4174. /. Summer total = 18939
COSTS total per day per mile
Total 1512.06. 137.46 .36
Fuel 352.03 32 .08
Room 884.60 88.46 .21
Board 265.43 24.13 .06
Misc 40.00 .75 .01
Saturday, July 5, 2014
RIDING THE NORTHERN TIER
THE BORDERS OF THE UNITED STATES ... 2014
PART ONE ... THE NORTHERN TIER 6.24-7.3.14
Day 1 - Tuesday - 6.24.14 Starting toward Canada in Minnesota ..
Str Cty : Home Str Mls : 45023
End Cty : Chippewa Falls End Mls : 45256
Dly Mls : 225 Miles Tot Mls : 225 Miles
Time : 4 Hours Notes : 30 m rain
225 miles in 4 hours - the Dells, Hwy 13 to Wisconsin Rapids, Vesper-Auburndale to Marshfield at 10-13, north to Colby to 29 west to Thorpe where it rained on me for 1/4 hours before stopping. I started in dairy land farming. Then above the Dells I went thru the 75 mile sand belt of Wisconsin which supports cranberry and potato farming and factory farm conifers for pulp wood. Finally, at Wisconsin Rapids the terrain changed to leafy-trees-surrounded grain fields and dairy farming, which continued all the way to Chippewa. Could not get a room on the Reservation at the HIX in Chippewa Falls through the 800# so I called the motel - no room! .... Stopped at the HIX when I got near and was given a room... To dry out in..next to a Culver's... The bike seat I choose was the one which gave me the most ground contact, unlike the seat on my eastern trip. However, this seat is not as comfortable..had cramps in both legs, and pain in my lumbar, back and shoulders. After getting wet I sat better. Tomorrow will be the proof of the pudding... Go home or go on. Muscle relaxants and pain meds. Mild side seizures... Out riding while Marnie trims our bushes and trees.
Day 2 - Wednesday - 6.25.14 Into MN - within 100 miles of Canada
Str Cty : Chippewa Falls Str Mls : 45256
End Cty : Iron Mt, MN End Mls : 45597.0
Dly Mls : 324 Miles Tot Mls : 549 Miles
Time : 5.5 Hours Notes : cold
324 miles (549 total) in 5.5 hours in the cold. Left in overcast, but luckily not rain, and kept adding clothes. Rode hwy 53 on the four lane, passing a road killed bear on the berm. The area north increasingly is forest and I passed a huge frack sand shipping facility. Entered Superior and Duluth mid morning. I stopped to walk around the Aerostitch store and warm up. On up #61 along Lake Superior.. Got to the turn and it began to warm on MN #1 toward Ely at noon less than 100 miles from Canada. I stopped for breaks in Isabella and Ely. Ely is 5500 population and a well organized town, however, summer is limited there. Rode on to the Quad cities - Mountain Iron, sir (Iron Mountain is in MI), Virginia and 2 others. There was a major rally against imported dumped steel and needing support for the US market. I think most of my pain is interaction of cold and arthritis, not the bike seat..rode better today..tomorrow? Passed the largest dredge bucket I have ever seen, including at oil sands.. Rode to a viewing area where it is 500 feet to the water from the surrounding land and 350 feet deep water, several miles long and 1/2 mile wide, mined out in '72. Rode around each town and pancakes at Perkins. Marnie is jealous.
Day 3 - Thursday - 6.26.14 Go USA... Moving west on the tier into ND
Str Cty : Iron Mt, MN Str Mls : 45597.0
End Cty : Minot, ND End Mls : 46117
Dly Mls : 476 Miles Tot Mls : 1025 Miles
Time : 7 Hours
Leaving the Mesabi Iron Range region of the American state of Minnesota is a major production area of Taconite. Taconite is a variety of iron formation, an iron-bearing (> 15% iron) sedimentary rock... The taconite pellets are hauled by railroad to the ports of Silver Bay, Two Harbors and the Twin Ports of Duluth, Minnesota and Superior, Wisconsin, all on Lake Superior... On- 476 and 1025 miles to Minot ND. North to ND Hwy 2 to ride in the Red Lake Reservation and along the lake and river of the Red Lake name. Looked as expected with few services. Along the River were vast fields/swamps filled with cattails. Rode BIA roads x the reservation and then county roads to Fargo. Little is planted or to be planted, except along the River was flat, black moist ground with grain starting. Stopped for gas in Thief River Falls - it is a beautiful little town worth moving to. In North Dakota the crops are high and wheat is 3 weeks from harvest. At 2pm I stopped in Devils Lake where I was going to stay, but wanted to keep riding and the "warning stop" ... Went thru Rugby ND, the geographic center of North America, and two weeks ago I went thru the center of the US. ---- Stopped at 82 mph by radar - told him I deserved a "warning", so I got one. Chicken and salad, over-priced. The seat was better and the pain was tolerable today.
Day 4 - Friday - 6.27.14 Into Montana.. Or .. Into the rain. Flat.flat.flat
Str Cty : Minot, ND Str Mls : 46117
End Cty : Havre, MT End Mls : 46578.0
Dly Mls : 433 Miles Tot Mls : 1457 Miles
Time : 6.45 Hours Notes : washed bike
Up to a wet area and thick overcast...however, the weather is moving north so maybe it will move up as I move west. Rode thru the Baaken Oil fields ...filthy..dirt..rain..mud the 1st 150 miles, so the bike was dirty.. The road is filthy, every vehicle is filthy and most of the people are filthy. There were several temporary camps for oil workers with rental rooms for displaced workers who would otherwise not have a place to live. A weekly long term place advertised a room for 699$ per week. These first 250 miles where high plains with huge wheat fields..It appears they use fallowing instead of crop rotation to revive the soil. I passed thru the Fort Peck Sioux and the Fort Belkamp Reservations and explored several of the towns as I passed. 433 miles and 1457 overall to Havre, Montana. The motel gave me a hose and washing material to wash my bike - will feel better getting it on in the am. Prime rib dinner before a tour of the small town. Havre is a rail center and train repair shop with about 9300 people. The town has UM Northern and seems very prosperous.
Day 5 - Saturday - 6.28.14 ... to Cut Bank where the plains meet the Rockies
Str Cty : Havre, MT Str Mls : 46578
End Cty : Sandpoint/ Ponderay ID End Mls : 47037
Dly Mls : 459 Miles Tot Mls : 1917 Miles
Time : 7 Hours Notes : 4x rained upon
Couldn't find my change bag this am- not in clothes, in room (tore it apart) or at motel desk..went to my bike to load and found it in another jacket...oh! Left in warm sunshine to ride the Hi-Line, which no one could explain to me other than it is an area along Hwy 2 and a string of towns. Passed antelope lying in a fallow field. All the ag was huge wheat fields with a few cattle. There were several huge yellow fields of blooming Saffron. I was riding into very little wind when it began to build strongly..and to my surprise there was an electric fan farm next to me.. 10 miles down the road there was little wind again... Someone did a good study of the wind potential in the area. Passed thru the Blackfoot tribe Reservation just before Glacier NP. The road in the park is still not open due to snow last week so I stayed south on #2. Immediately as I went into the mountains it started to rain and it rained all the way thru the mountains...the sun was shining in Kellaspell. I crossed the Continental Divide (10th) on the south of Glacier NP for the 6 th time this summer. I headed up into the Kootenai River area, followed the River from small to huge and arrived at Bonners Ferry 15 miles from Canada, before heading south to Sandpoint- Ponderay, Idaho. Drenched 4 times today in 459 miles in 7 hours, 1917 total. 1 more day to the coast...
Day 6 - Sunday - 6.28.14 .... Thru TWISP and to the great NW
tr Cty : Ponderay , ID Str Mls : 47037
End Cty : Lacey - Olympia, OR End Mls : 47575
Dly Mls : 528 Miles Tot Mls : 2445 Miles
Time : 9 Hours Notes : Cascade mountains
Met Jeff and Sally Donahe, from Owatona, MN, who were returning from Canada. We visited at length over breakfast. Left in sunny warmth at 8am on Hwy 2 until I picked up 20 along the Pen D' Oreille River which flows into the Columbia River then turned north within 20 miles from Canada. Crossed the Columbia somewhere and went into the first set of mountains for some rain and hail. Rode thru the Kalispel Indian Reservation and had coffee at their information station. Rode to 97 and then back on 20 to Twisp, my favorite-named town... Ate Mexican lunch and got back on the road. As I started toward Twisp on 20, I passed huge tent orchards of sweet cherries...bird prevention covers. However, I found a new neat name: TUNK.. which is the name for a mountain. I had passed thru the eastern mountains in rain to 5500' and the sun with dry warmth in the #97 valley north of Chalen, where Beebe apple orchards are located. After Twisp I entered the Cascade Mountains and went over 5500 several times and 4400 many times....Rained every 15 minutes. Finally, I arrived at I-5 at Arlington. All 400 miles were in beautiful pine forest and thru hilly to mountainous terrain. These last 600 miles are a ride worth doing again.. Always places to go back to!
END OF THE NORTHERN TIER
PART TWO. .....Starting the Western Column. ...
Rode 100 miles south down I-5 at 70 mph to Lacey-Olympia for HIX overnite. Tomorrow I shall end Washington and get on Hwy 12 and head east toward home.
I rode the next section from here to Santa Cruz last summer so here are the notes for that section.
Day 15 - Monday - 7.8.13... on to Mt St. Helens and Portland
STR CTY: YAKIMA, WA
STR MLS: 34437
END CTY: PORTLAND, OR
END MLS: 34722
DLY MLS: 266 MILES
TOT MLS: 5012 MILES
TIME : 6 HOURS
NOTES : HUSTON’S
Up at 6 and trying to make contact with Huston’s. Finally found Alka Seltzer cough and cold so cold symptoms are mitigated. Called Russell and cannot get my seat worked on in Shasta Lake, CA – “NO”. Left at 8 on Hwy 12 for 50 miles going over White Pass at 4500'. I went 25 miles on 131 to the turn off for a great view of Mount Rainier.. Along the road were beautiful flowers wherever the sunlite could get thru the unusually dense forest...close, tall, interlaced trees.
Up FS99 for 15 miles one gets varying views of Mt St Helens......Along the way you see thousands of blown down trees all laying tops away from Helens and no soil - burned to the bedrock. I went back to Hwy 25 and rode 100 miles to Portland and our friends, Dick and Evie Huston. I could not rouse them on the phone but they seemed delighted when I showed out of thin air...nice talk of current life and history together from IU and when we visited their beach house hunting razor clams. Am at HIexp for the nite.
Day 16 - Tuesday - 7.9.13 .... out to the Pacific coast
STR CTY: PORTLAND, OR S
TR MLS: 34738
END CTY: COOS BAY, OR
END MLS: 35122
DLY MLS: 384 MILES
TOT MLS: 5396 MILES
TIME : 7.75 HOURS
NOTES : COLD
First up the Columbia River gorge for a look on Hwy 14. The scenery after 50 miles was not too dramatic, except to look up the river at one point. So, I turned back and moved on to Astoria, Oregon at the mouth to the Columbia River (where Lewis and Clark camped). This put me on Hwy 101 heading south. Periodically I got good views of the Pacific Ocean and the immediate terrain. Great forests! It was cold all day, sometimes sunny and cloudy at other times, it was always cold. This was a hard ride as the road wound and wandered, up and down- the pace changed frequently due to small towns, slow drivers and slow speed controls. Finally, I got to Coos Bay for the nite after 384 miles in 7.75 hours and 5200+ overall. Shoulders and back good even in tough driving conditions. Almost dropped my bike last eve but a guy helped me and saved my shoulders.
Day 17 - Wednesday - 7.10.13 ...on toward San Francisco
STR CTY: COOS BAY, OR
STR MLS: 35122
END CTY: FORT BRAGG, CA
END MLS: 35508
DLY MLS: 368 MILES
TOT MLS: 5764 MILES
TIME : 8 HOURS
NOTES : COLD +HOT
Up at 6:30 to get to Fort Bragg, CA HIexp. Got to ride the coast on 101 with continued views of the Pacific not readily available yesterday- beautiful. Cold and clear. All of a sudden fog....and cold - freezing! I was riding the "Highway of Redwoods" thru several groves on the bypass- Drugy Scenic Parkway. Then a long period to the Rockefeller Forest and the "Avenue of the Giants". The trees are so huge and close together- to say nothing about the amazing height. I had dinner with two grads working for the CA forest service marking and putting for bid state pine and redwoods. As I proceeded down the Avenue the temperature rose from 50s to 98 degrees... Hot.. hot... so I stripped down. Then I hit CA #1 which goes up to 1800' over the Coastal Range mountains and down to sea level ....and the temperature fell to the 40s....cold... freezing..adding clothes. I then hit the coast again and the foggy views were coldly beautiful.... Arrived to heat my room and rest.. Nice but demanding ride in the Coastal Range and in the Redwoods. Dinner at a bar with calzone, with WW points. 368 miles in 8 hours of gawking.
Day 18 - Thursday - 7.11.13. San Francisco and the Wharf (for free)
STR CTY: FORT BRAGG,CA
STR MLS: 35508
END CTY: SAN FRANCISCO, CA
END MLS: 35715
DLY MLS: 194 MILES
TOT MLS: 5958 MILES
TIME : 5.25 HOURS
NOTES . 176 + 20 miles in SF
After the weather changes and thinking about crossing the desert from San Diego to Austin, I have decided to change directions. I will go from San Francisco to Grand Junction CO, crossing Nevada and Utah in the central areas but far north of the southern route. Back into the Rockies I shall go south on the Continental Divide to Santa Fe and Austin, stopping in Oklahoma Dust Bowl areas to give Nook time to clean her apartment. There were many small towns and houses at the ocean which is too rough and cold to interact with- so the import is for scenery and serenity. Was cold and miserable the entire coast. Crossed the Golden Gate….
Up at 6 and left in the cold and moist coastal conditions at 7:15. Rode 176 miles on CA #1. Stopped in Mendocino, the town we visited in '76 and near which we camped in the same kind of weather as today. What a ride...up-down, left-right with many turnouts to save my passing. Eucalyptus and redwoods line the road in some areas and I can still smell the eucalyptus. One stretch required riding 500 feet up from the straight down ocean without guard rails. Views were limited but dramatic. Towns of few people were numerous and closer to SF there was some cattle farming. After some suburb driving I hit the Golden Gate Bridge and entered San Francisco very tired and sore from the very demanding ride in cold weather. After checking in and arranging parking, I took a 20 mile trip around the city and its parks, including the underside of the Oakland Bay Bridge. After complaining about the quality of this facility- no wifi in the rooms, 18 TV stations without MSNBC and the tour, not being told but charged $45 to park my bike, and being refused to, got my free nite back- I walked to the Wharf and ate - had clam chowder & fried calamari. They compted my parking and put some points on my account 25% of a free nite. Over at the cable car the line was a block long and I am not a consummate "waiter" so I moved on after talking with some Swiss people. The number of foreign speakers here is amazing. Nice ride today...one of the best of the trip in spite of the cold. Walked 16 blocks in two slow sessions- one for dinner on the wharf and to see the cable car, and one for Carmel corn. 194 miles in 4 hours to San Francisco.
Day 19 - Friday - 7.12.13 South to Santa Cruz, Yosemite, & NV
STR CTY: SAN FRANCISCO, CA
STR MLS: 35571
END CTY: ELY, NV
END MLS: 36397
DLY MLS: 656 MILES
TOT MLS: 6614 MILES
TIME : 11.5 HOURS
Up and out of here... Good riddance! Paid my ticket to Wyoming...$100.. Started in San Francisco at sea level. Went down CA1 on the Cabarilla Hwy 60 miles to Santa Cruz out of San Francisco and along the ocean. Then East to Merced on 152 for 120 miles thru the truck farm area at 100'. Rode to Mariposa for gas and on to Yosemite National Park at 4200' on Hwy# 140. Cold to SC and then very hot until 7000'. Leaving the valley I climbed to over 9800'. Then down to Mariposa from 8100' for gas before starting across the high desert above 5k' on 120. This is the area where we backpacked to 10k'+ in the late '70s with the Downing’s. Picked up gas in Lee Vining on 120 and Tonopha while riding 300 miles of high desert on route 6. 13 miles from Ely it started to rain for about 5 miles and on arrival I met Hwy 50 (same as thru Salem WV). On the road I saw two does and four fawn’s, all with very dark, thick hair which made the fawn’s white spots stand out. They ran down the road with me until they figured out where mom was and doubled back. At the Ramada Inn in Ely at 6000 feet after 654 miles in 11.5 hours and 6670 total miles so far. Very comfortable above 7k'.
TO BE CONTINUED ....
Heading home :
Day 7 - Monday- 6.30.14 Heading east toward home..
Str Cty : Lacey, OR Str Mls : 47575
End Cty : Lewiston,ID End Mls : 48000
Dly Mls : 394 Miles Tot Mls : 2839 Miles
Time : 6.5 Hours Notes : sun warm
first day of sunshine, warmth and no rain as I left at 8:00. Rode 40 miles south on I-5 to catch Hwy #12 and to turn east. Great road and travelled quickly thru the Cascades rising to 4500' in White Pass. Beautiful forest and mountains. I could see Rainer and St Helens at differing times..this is Rainer looking back to the west. When out of the mountains I entered Yakima and proceeded up the Yakima River Valley. This area is irrigated fruit orchards and vegetable fields. The valley was green and the hills on either side were dry brown. When I left the valley I went into dry country with huge, huge wheat fields on every contour and angle.. Harvest is near but I do not know how they put machines on the side hills. Every village along the way looked prosperous and few buildings on the main streets were empty -especially, Waitsburg. Crossed the Columbia and Snake Rivers again. At Lewiston and Clarkson there is a loading harbor for barges. Looks like wheat and wood products (saw dust and chips) are loaded here and sent down the Snake to come to join the Columbia at Kennewick and then to Astoria. At HIX Lewiston. Bad day at the Supreme bullshit Court. Saw elk from a distance..standing in a wheat field.
Day 8 - Tuesday - 7.1.14 Back into Montana as far as reasonable...
Str Cty : Lewiston,ID Str Mls : 48000
End Cty : Miles City, MT End Mls : 47708
Dly Mls : 681 Miles Tot Mls : 3521 Miles
Time : 10.5 Hours
681 miles for 3521 total. Lewiston thru LoLo pass along the Clearwater River at 4500', then to the Continental Divide at 6400' ( 11th crossing this year), and finally high on the prairie at 5900' before leveling out and gradually coming down to 1300 '. It took 160 miles for a very gradual rise to 3900' in Lolo along side the Clearwater River... while undulating in the bare hills to lush forests and closed canyons. Out in the high prairie the predominate crop was grass for hay and cattle. Arrived at 8:30 PM in time to have 1/2 slab of ribs at a favorite restaurant. Miles City is on the Yellowstone River where it turns north to meet the Missouri about Williston, ND. To bed late and up late.
Day 9 - Wednesday - 7.2.14. To/thru South Dakota again.
Str Cty : Miles City, MT Str Mls : 47708
End Cty : Watertown, SD End Mls : 49218
Dly Mls : 491 Miles Tot Mls : 4012 Miles
Time : 7.5 Hours Notes : tickets
491 miles for a total of 4012. 150 miles to the SD border in time to be stopped by a county mounty who would not warn me... 125$ ticket On the Standing Rock Reservation. Noon in Mobridge, 3 in Roscoe-Ipswich and on to Watertown for the over nite. This a very usual ride which I have so far done 5 times in 2 years... Back again in 2 weeks. To Culver's for dinner. What's the deal with the Yellowstone Trail, started by grandpa and Parmely, as it does not go to the Yellowstone NP.. Actually once it might have been the primary road to get close to the Park. Watertown, SD for the nite.
Day 10 - Thursday - 7.3.14. Home... For dinner...
Str Cty : Watertown, SD Str Mls : 49218
End Cty : HOME End Mls : 49702
Dly Mls : 463 Miles Tot Mls : 4475 Miles
Time : 7.75 Hours
Delightful ... Another 19 mph over in MN... Another ticket on a state road.... Don't know how much yet. Left late and rode cross country from Watertown to New Ulm where I met Hwy 14, which I rode all the way home... Mankato, Rochester, La Crosse, Richland Center and here. 463 miles and 4475 overall by Gps and 4679 by speedo. HOME FOR 9 DAYS....
MILES 4475 GPS 4679 SPEEDO
COSTS TOTAL /MILE /DAY
FUEL 385.36 .83 42.82
ROOM 860.42 .18 95.60
FOOD 196.69 .04 21.85
MISC 225
TOTAL 1667.47 .36 185.27
PART ONE ... THE NORTHERN TIER 6.24-7.3.14
Day 1 - Tuesday - 6.24.14 Starting toward Canada in Minnesota ..
Str Cty : Home Str Mls : 45023
End Cty : Chippewa Falls End Mls : 45256
Dly Mls : 225 Miles Tot Mls : 225 Miles
Time : 4 Hours Notes : 30 m rain
225 miles in 4 hours - the Dells, Hwy 13 to Wisconsin Rapids, Vesper-Auburndale to Marshfield at 10-13, north to Colby to 29 west to Thorpe where it rained on me for 1/4 hours before stopping. I started in dairy land farming. Then above the Dells I went thru the 75 mile sand belt of Wisconsin which supports cranberry and potato farming and factory farm conifers for pulp wood. Finally, at Wisconsin Rapids the terrain changed to leafy-trees-surrounded grain fields and dairy farming, which continued all the way to Chippewa. Could not get a room on the Reservation at the HIX in Chippewa Falls through the 800# so I called the motel - no room! .... Stopped at the HIX when I got near and was given a room... To dry out in..next to a Culver's... The bike seat I choose was the one which gave me the most ground contact, unlike the seat on my eastern trip. However, this seat is not as comfortable..had cramps in both legs, and pain in my lumbar, back and shoulders. After getting wet I sat better. Tomorrow will be the proof of the pudding... Go home or go on. Muscle relaxants and pain meds. Mild side seizures... Out riding while Marnie trims our bushes and trees.
Day 2 - Wednesday - 6.25.14 Into MN - within 100 miles of Canada
Str Cty : Chippewa Falls Str Mls : 45256
End Cty : Iron Mt, MN End Mls : 45597.0
Dly Mls : 324 Miles Tot Mls : 549 Miles
Time : 5.5 Hours Notes : cold
324 miles (549 total) in 5.5 hours in the cold. Left in overcast, but luckily not rain, and kept adding clothes. Rode hwy 53 on the four lane, passing a road killed bear on the berm. The area north increasingly is forest and I passed a huge frack sand shipping facility. Entered Superior and Duluth mid morning. I stopped to walk around the Aerostitch store and warm up. On up #61 along Lake Superior.. Got to the turn and it began to warm on MN #1 toward Ely at noon less than 100 miles from Canada. I stopped for breaks in Isabella and Ely. Ely is 5500 population and a well organized town, however, summer is limited there. Rode on to the Quad cities - Mountain Iron, sir (Iron Mountain is in MI), Virginia and 2 others. There was a major rally against imported dumped steel and needing support for the US market. I think most of my pain is interaction of cold and arthritis, not the bike seat..rode better today..tomorrow? Passed the largest dredge bucket I have ever seen, including at oil sands.. Rode to a viewing area where it is 500 feet to the water from the surrounding land and 350 feet deep water, several miles long and 1/2 mile wide, mined out in '72. Rode around each town and pancakes at Perkins. Marnie is jealous.
Day 3 - Thursday - 6.26.14 Go USA... Moving west on the tier into ND
Str Cty : Iron Mt, MN Str Mls : 45597.0
End Cty : Minot, ND End Mls : 46117
Dly Mls : 476 Miles Tot Mls : 1025 Miles
Time : 7 Hours
Leaving the Mesabi Iron Range region of the American state of Minnesota is a major production area of Taconite. Taconite is a variety of iron formation, an iron-bearing (> 15% iron) sedimentary rock... The taconite pellets are hauled by railroad to the ports of Silver Bay, Two Harbors and the Twin Ports of Duluth, Minnesota and Superior, Wisconsin, all on Lake Superior... On- 476 and 1025 miles to Minot ND. North to ND Hwy 2 to ride in the Red Lake Reservation and along the lake and river of the Red Lake name. Looked as expected with few services. Along the River were vast fields/swamps filled with cattails. Rode BIA roads x the reservation and then county roads to Fargo. Little is planted or to be planted, except along the River was flat, black moist ground with grain starting. Stopped for gas in Thief River Falls - it is a beautiful little town worth moving to. In North Dakota the crops are high and wheat is 3 weeks from harvest. At 2pm I stopped in Devils Lake where I was going to stay, but wanted to keep riding and the "warning stop" ... Went thru Rugby ND, the geographic center of North America, and two weeks ago I went thru the center of the US. ---- Stopped at 82 mph by radar - told him I deserved a "warning", so I got one. Chicken and salad, over-priced. The seat was better and the pain was tolerable today.
Day 4 - Friday - 6.27.14 Into Montana.. Or .. Into the rain. Flat.flat.flat
Str Cty : Minot, ND Str Mls : 46117
End Cty : Havre, MT End Mls : 46578.0
Dly Mls : 433 Miles Tot Mls : 1457 Miles
Time : 6.45 Hours Notes : washed bike
Up to a wet area and thick overcast...however, the weather is moving north so maybe it will move up as I move west. Rode thru the Baaken Oil fields ...filthy..dirt..rain..mud the 1st 150 miles, so the bike was dirty.. The road is filthy, every vehicle is filthy and most of the people are filthy. There were several temporary camps for oil workers with rental rooms for displaced workers who would otherwise not have a place to live. A weekly long term place advertised a room for 699$ per week. These first 250 miles where high plains with huge wheat fields..It appears they use fallowing instead of crop rotation to revive the soil. I passed thru the Fort Peck Sioux and the Fort Belkamp Reservations and explored several of the towns as I passed. 433 miles and 1457 overall to Havre, Montana. The motel gave me a hose and washing material to wash my bike - will feel better getting it on in the am. Prime rib dinner before a tour of the small town. Havre is a rail center and train repair shop with about 9300 people. The town has UM Northern and seems very prosperous.
Day 5 - Saturday - 6.28.14 ... to Cut Bank where the plains meet the Rockies
Str Cty : Havre, MT Str Mls : 46578
End Cty : Sandpoint/ Ponderay ID End Mls : 47037
Dly Mls : 459 Miles Tot Mls : 1917 Miles
Time : 7 Hours Notes : 4x rained upon
Couldn't find my change bag this am- not in clothes, in room (tore it apart) or at motel desk..went to my bike to load and found it in another jacket...oh! Left in warm sunshine to ride the Hi-Line, which no one could explain to me other than it is an area along Hwy 2 and a string of towns. Passed antelope lying in a fallow field. All the ag was huge wheat fields with a few cattle. There were several huge yellow fields of blooming Saffron. I was riding into very little wind when it began to build strongly..and to my surprise there was an electric fan farm next to me.. 10 miles down the road there was little wind again... Someone did a good study of the wind potential in the area. Passed thru the Blackfoot tribe Reservation just before Glacier NP. The road in the park is still not open due to snow last week so I stayed south on #2. Immediately as I went into the mountains it started to rain and it rained all the way thru the mountains...the sun was shining in Kellaspell. I crossed the Continental Divide (10th) on the south of Glacier NP for the 6 th time this summer. I headed up into the Kootenai River area, followed the River from small to huge and arrived at Bonners Ferry 15 miles from Canada, before heading south to Sandpoint- Ponderay, Idaho. Drenched 4 times today in 459 miles in 7 hours, 1917 total. 1 more day to the coast...
Day 6 - Sunday - 6.28.14 .... Thru TWISP and to the great NW
tr Cty : Ponderay , ID Str Mls : 47037
End Cty : Lacey - Olympia, OR End Mls : 47575
Dly Mls : 528 Miles Tot Mls : 2445 Miles
Time : 9 Hours Notes : Cascade mountains
Met Jeff and Sally Donahe, from Owatona, MN, who were returning from Canada. We visited at length over breakfast. Left in sunny warmth at 8am on Hwy 2 until I picked up 20 along the Pen D' Oreille River which flows into the Columbia River then turned north within 20 miles from Canada. Crossed the Columbia somewhere and went into the first set of mountains for some rain and hail. Rode thru the Kalispel Indian Reservation and had coffee at their information station. Rode to 97 and then back on 20 to Twisp, my favorite-named town... Ate Mexican lunch and got back on the road. As I started toward Twisp on 20, I passed huge tent orchards of sweet cherries...bird prevention covers. However, I found a new neat name: TUNK.. which is the name for a mountain. I had passed thru the eastern mountains in rain to 5500' and the sun with dry warmth in the #97 valley north of Chalen, where Beebe apple orchards are located. After Twisp I entered the Cascade Mountains and went over 5500 several times and 4400 many times....Rained every 15 minutes. Finally, I arrived at I-5 at Arlington. All 400 miles were in beautiful pine forest and thru hilly to mountainous terrain. These last 600 miles are a ride worth doing again.. Always places to go back to!
END OF THE NORTHERN TIER
PART TWO. .....Starting the Western Column. ...
Rode 100 miles south down I-5 at 70 mph to Lacey-Olympia for HIX overnite. Tomorrow I shall end Washington and get on Hwy 12 and head east toward home.
I rode the next section from here to Santa Cruz last summer so here are the notes for that section.
Day 15 - Monday - 7.8.13... on to Mt St. Helens and Portland
STR CTY: YAKIMA, WA
STR MLS: 34437
END CTY: PORTLAND, OR
END MLS: 34722
DLY MLS: 266 MILES
TOT MLS: 5012 MILES
TIME : 6 HOURS
NOTES : HUSTON’S
Up at 6 and trying to make contact with Huston’s. Finally found Alka Seltzer cough and cold so cold symptoms are mitigated. Called Russell and cannot get my seat worked on in Shasta Lake, CA – “NO”. Left at 8 on Hwy 12 for 50 miles going over White Pass at 4500'. I went 25 miles on 131 to the turn off for a great view of Mount Rainier.. Along the road were beautiful flowers wherever the sunlite could get thru the unusually dense forest...close, tall, interlaced trees.
Up FS99 for 15 miles one gets varying views of Mt St Helens......Along the way you see thousands of blown down trees all laying tops away from Helens and no soil - burned to the bedrock. I went back to Hwy 25 and rode 100 miles to Portland and our friends, Dick and Evie Huston. I could not rouse them on the phone but they seemed delighted when I showed out of thin air...nice talk of current life and history together from IU and when we visited their beach house hunting razor clams. Am at HIexp for the nite.
Day 16 - Tuesday - 7.9.13 .... out to the Pacific coast
STR CTY: PORTLAND, OR S
TR MLS: 34738
END CTY: COOS BAY, OR
END MLS: 35122
DLY MLS: 384 MILES
TOT MLS: 5396 MILES
TIME : 7.75 HOURS
NOTES : COLD
First up the Columbia River gorge for a look on Hwy 14. The scenery after 50 miles was not too dramatic, except to look up the river at one point. So, I turned back and moved on to Astoria, Oregon at the mouth to the Columbia River (where Lewis and Clark camped). This put me on Hwy 101 heading south. Periodically I got good views of the Pacific Ocean and the immediate terrain. Great forests! It was cold all day, sometimes sunny and cloudy at other times, it was always cold. This was a hard ride as the road wound and wandered, up and down- the pace changed frequently due to small towns, slow drivers and slow speed controls. Finally, I got to Coos Bay for the nite after 384 miles in 7.75 hours and 5200+ overall. Shoulders and back good even in tough driving conditions. Almost dropped my bike last eve but a guy helped me and saved my shoulders.
Day 17 - Wednesday - 7.10.13 ...on toward San Francisco
STR CTY: COOS BAY, OR
STR MLS: 35122
END CTY: FORT BRAGG, CA
END MLS: 35508
DLY MLS: 368 MILES
TOT MLS: 5764 MILES
TIME : 8 HOURS
NOTES : COLD +HOT
Up at 6:30 to get to Fort Bragg, CA HIexp. Got to ride the coast on 101 with continued views of the Pacific not readily available yesterday- beautiful. Cold and clear. All of a sudden fog....and cold - freezing! I was riding the "Highway of Redwoods" thru several groves on the bypass- Drugy Scenic Parkway. Then a long period to the Rockefeller Forest and the "Avenue of the Giants". The trees are so huge and close together- to say nothing about the amazing height. I had dinner with two grads working for the CA forest service marking and putting for bid state pine and redwoods. As I proceeded down the Avenue the temperature rose from 50s to 98 degrees... Hot.. hot... so I stripped down. Then I hit CA #1 which goes up to 1800' over the Coastal Range mountains and down to sea level ....and the temperature fell to the 40s....cold... freezing..adding clothes. I then hit the coast again and the foggy views were coldly beautiful.... Arrived to heat my room and rest.. Nice but demanding ride in the Coastal Range and in the Redwoods. Dinner at a bar with calzone, with WW points. 368 miles in 8 hours of gawking.
Day 18 - Thursday - 7.11.13. San Francisco and the Wharf (for free)
STR CTY: FORT BRAGG,CA
STR MLS: 35508
END CTY: SAN FRANCISCO, CA
END MLS: 35715
DLY MLS: 194 MILES
TOT MLS: 5958 MILES
TIME : 5.25 HOURS
NOTES . 176 + 20 miles in SF
After the weather changes and thinking about crossing the desert from San Diego to Austin, I have decided to change directions. I will go from San Francisco to Grand Junction CO, crossing Nevada and Utah in the central areas but far north of the southern route. Back into the Rockies I shall go south on the Continental Divide to Santa Fe and Austin, stopping in Oklahoma Dust Bowl areas to give Nook time to clean her apartment. There were many small towns and houses at the ocean which is too rough and cold to interact with- so the import is for scenery and serenity. Was cold and miserable the entire coast. Crossed the Golden Gate….
Up at 6 and left in the cold and moist coastal conditions at 7:15. Rode 176 miles on CA #1. Stopped in Mendocino, the town we visited in '76 and near which we camped in the same kind of weather as today. What a ride...up-down, left-right with many turnouts to save my passing. Eucalyptus and redwoods line the road in some areas and I can still smell the eucalyptus. One stretch required riding 500 feet up from the straight down ocean without guard rails. Views were limited but dramatic. Towns of few people were numerous and closer to SF there was some cattle farming. After some suburb driving I hit the Golden Gate Bridge and entered San Francisco very tired and sore from the very demanding ride in cold weather. After checking in and arranging parking, I took a 20 mile trip around the city and its parks, including the underside of the Oakland Bay Bridge. After complaining about the quality of this facility- no wifi in the rooms, 18 TV stations without MSNBC and the tour, not being told but charged $45 to park my bike, and being refused to, got my free nite back- I walked to the Wharf and ate - had clam chowder & fried calamari. They compted my parking and put some points on my account 25% of a free nite. Over at the cable car the line was a block long and I am not a consummate "waiter" so I moved on after talking with some Swiss people. The number of foreign speakers here is amazing. Nice ride today...one of the best of the trip in spite of the cold. Walked 16 blocks in two slow sessions- one for dinner on the wharf and to see the cable car, and one for Carmel corn. 194 miles in 4 hours to San Francisco.
Day 19 - Friday - 7.12.13 South to Santa Cruz, Yosemite, & NV
STR CTY: SAN FRANCISCO, CA
STR MLS: 35571
END CTY: ELY, NV
END MLS: 36397
DLY MLS: 656 MILES
TOT MLS: 6614 MILES
TIME : 11.5 HOURS
Up and out of here... Good riddance! Paid my ticket to Wyoming...$100.. Started in San Francisco at sea level. Went down CA1 on the Cabarilla Hwy 60 miles to Santa Cruz out of San Francisco and along the ocean. Then East to Merced on 152 for 120 miles thru the truck farm area at 100'. Rode to Mariposa for gas and on to Yosemite National Park at 4200' on Hwy# 140. Cold to SC and then very hot until 7000'. Leaving the valley I climbed to over 9800'. Then down to Mariposa from 8100' for gas before starting across the high desert above 5k' on 120. This is the area where we backpacked to 10k'+ in the late '70s with the Downing’s. Picked up gas in Lee Vining on 120 and Tonopha while riding 300 miles of high desert on route 6. 13 miles from Ely it started to rain for about 5 miles and on arrival I met Hwy 50 (same as thru Salem WV). On the road I saw two does and four fawn’s, all with very dark, thick hair which made the fawn’s white spots stand out. They ran down the road with me until they figured out where mom was and doubled back. At the Ramada Inn in Ely at 6000 feet after 654 miles in 11.5 hours and 6670 total miles so far. Very comfortable above 7k'.
TO BE CONTINUED ....
Heading home :
Day 7 - Monday- 6.30.14 Heading east toward home..
Str Cty : Lacey, OR Str Mls : 47575
End Cty : Lewiston,ID End Mls : 48000
Dly Mls : 394 Miles Tot Mls : 2839 Miles
Time : 6.5 Hours Notes : sun warm
first day of sunshine, warmth and no rain as I left at 8:00. Rode 40 miles south on I-5 to catch Hwy #12 and to turn east. Great road and travelled quickly thru the Cascades rising to 4500' in White Pass. Beautiful forest and mountains. I could see Rainer and St Helens at differing times..this is Rainer looking back to the west. When out of the mountains I entered Yakima and proceeded up the Yakima River Valley. This area is irrigated fruit orchards and vegetable fields. The valley was green and the hills on either side were dry brown. When I left the valley I went into dry country with huge, huge wheat fields on every contour and angle.. Harvest is near but I do not know how they put machines on the side hills. Every village along the way looked prosperous and few buildings on the main streets were empty -especially, Waitsburg. Crossed the Columbia and Snake Rivers again. At Lewiston and Clarkson there is a loading harbor for barges. Looks like wheat and wood products (saw dust and chips) are loaded here and sent down the Snake to come to join the Columbia at Kennewick and then to Astoria. At HIX Lewiston. Bad day at the Supreme bullshit Court. Saw elk from a distance..standing in a wheat field.
Day 8 - Tuesday - 7.1.14 Back into Montana as far as reasonable...
Str Cty : Lewiston,ID Str Mls : 48000
End Cty : Miles City, MT End Mls : 47708
Dly Mls : 681 Miles Tot Mls : 3521 Miles
Time : 10.5 Hours
681 miles for 3521 total. Lewiston thru LoLo pass along the Clearwater River at 4500', then to the Continental Divide at 6400' ( 11th crossing this year), and finally high on the prairie at 5900' before leveling out and gradually coming down to 1300 '. It took 160 miles for a very gradual rise to 3900' in Lolo along side the Clearwater River... while undulating in the bare hills to lush forests and closed canyons. Out in the high prairie the predominate crop was grass for hay and cattle. Arrived at 8:30 PM in time to have 1/2 slab of ribs at a favorite restaurant. Miles City is on the Yellowstone River where it turns north to meet the Missouri about Williston, ND. To bed late and up late.
Day 9 - Wednesday - 7.2.14. To/thru South Dakota again.
Str Cty : Miles City, MT Str Mls : 47708
End Cty : Watertown, SD End Mls : 49218
Dly Mls : 491 Miles Tot Mls : 4012 Miles
Time : 7.5 Hours Notes : tickets
491 miles for a total of 4012. 150 miles to the SD border in time to be stopped by a county mounty who would not warn me... 125$ ticket On the Standing Rock Reservation. Noon in Mobridge, 3 in Roscoe-Ipswich and on to Watertown for the over nite. This a very usual ride which I have so far done 5 times in 2 years... Back again in 2 weeks. To Culver's for dinner. What's the deal with the Yellowstone Trail, started by grandpa and Parmely, as it does not go to the Yellowstone NP.. Actually once it might have been the primary road to get close to the Park. Watertown, SD for the nite.
Day 10 - Thursday - 7.3.14. Home... For dinner...
Str Cty : Watertown, SD Str Mls : 49218
End Cty : HOME End Mls : 49702
Dly Mls : 463 Miles Tot Mls : 4475 Miles
Time : 7.75 Hours
Delightful ... Another 19 mph over in MN... Another ticket on a state road.... Don't know how much yet. Left late and rode cross country from Watertown to New Ulm where I met Hwy 14, which I rode all the way home... Mankato, Rochester, La Crosse, Richland Center and here. 463 miles and 4475 overall by Gps and 4679 by speedo. HOME FOR 9 DAYS....
MILES 4475 GPS 4679 SPEEDO
COSTS TOTAL /MILE /DAY
FUEL 385.36 .83 42.82
ROOM 860.42 .18 95.60
FOOD 196.69 .04 21.85
MISC 225
TOTAL 1667.47 .36 185.27
Saturday, June 7, 2014
Trip to the Southwest and California
Southwest & California....2014
Day 1 - Saturday - 5.24.14 leaving home...again! Made Topeka...
STR CTY : HOME
END CTY : TOPEKA, KS
DLY MLS : 563 TOT MLS : 563 MILES
Capital of Kansas and the home of Brownback. In spite of not wanting to.. 563 miles in 8.5 hours because there were no vacancies in KC..Royals and little league was in town and NHRA was in this area.. Got the last room for 100 miles... 4 periods of sprinkles .. 50 degrees till 10 AM, 60 till noon and not over 75 the rest of the day. Only 14 minutes of sun. Got a free room with points..only 10,000. I left 4 lane at Iowa City and then went cross country through Iowa & Missouri for over 280 miles...then back on I 35-70 to Topeka. Averaged over 66 mph traveling. I am currently at the same distance from the IN farm as Madison. Stayed in this vicinity in October '12 on my way to CA with 2011 RT. Hu Hut for dinner..2 nites in a row, too much food..
Day 2 - Sunday - 5.25.14 on to 50 and toward Colorado...
STR CTY : TOPEKA, KS
END CTY : LA JUNTA, CO
DLY MLS : 510 MILES TOT MLS : 1072 MILES
My feet are soaked and warm but all else has dried out in the last 300 miles and 70-80 heat. 510 miles in 7.5 hours and 1072 total. Left Topeka on 70 at 8am on the first part of the interstate built as it honored Eisenhower running to Abilene. The road was very rough... Needed to lower my tire air pressure to get a decent ride. After 140 miles I headed southwest on 56 and 20 miles down the road the temperature dropped to 62 and a downpour started..nowhere to stop for the 30 miles of rain. Got to Larned when it stopped and I did not .. Got side tracked by the Kansas state forensic hospital - huge with many facilities. Back on the road and hit hwy 50 at 200 miles. The areas I passed thru were mostly grass lands, grazing cattle. Stopped in Dodge City to recoup my morale and have a coke and gas up. Beautiful entry mosaic - . Along 50 I hit wheat farms with huge irrigated fields, cattle feedlots (mostly Holstein cattle- dairy culls), and huge butcher-freezer plants. At one location I entered a huge wind farm. As I entered I had a strong following wind, but by the middle it had come around 150 degree to the quarter. Finally, as I rose above 2k' the land became dry and brown, only showing growth where irrigated with mostly alfalfa and feed grains. The frontal or quartering wind was so strong as to hurt my sinuses. My feet were the only rain residual. In La Junta CO tonite at HIX - first inn I could find from Dodge City. Ate Chinese and early sleep.
Day 3 - Monday - Memorial Day - 5.26.14 On to the mountains
STR CTY : LA JUNTA, CO
END CTY : GUNNISON, CO
DLY MLS : 427 MILES TOT MLS : 1483 MILES
Up late- 7 - and leisurely breakfast. 40% chance of rain in both start and finish and very cold - 30s - in the mountains. I started at 4k' and travelled 120 miles on level irrigated hand crops. At Pueblo I was at 5k' and entered the Arkansas River Canyon (have crossed the Arkansas River at least 6 times yesterday) leading to Salida and 6k'. As I entered the first row of mountains - a beautiful snowy sight (like Estes and Glacier would be now). At this point I was 70 miles from Gunnison and thought of riding a loop north on 291 and west on 82 to Aspen after checking into the HIX. But I could save a lot of miles if I just went to Aspen first, so I set out north at 7k'. I made my first continental divide transit this year at Independence Pass over 12000'+ in the snow. This changes from the Atlantic to Pacific drainage areas. Up and down the mountain pass every parking place was full of cars of skiers, snowboarders, and sledders. It was 45 degrees with 4 feet of remaining snow. Aspen was very busy so I moved on..amazed how much it has developed. At Carbondale I turned south on 133-92-50 and went back into the mountains to over 8700' where the first sign said no gas for 60 miles and at 70 miles said no gas for 80 miles. Past Black Canyon and along the Gunnison River. The aspen trees were beautiful..you could see every white trunk like pillars with a hint of light spring green cloud of budding leaves surrounding the whole heavily wooded areas - mountain-side after glen. Checked in after 427 miles and 1483 overall. AM IN THE MOUNTAINS NOW! My nose is red, swollen and off to the left. Sun all day but 45 deg at 12000' and only 70 below 8000'.
Day 4 - Tuesday - 5.27.14. To Farmington NM on the Continental Divide.
STR CTY : GUNNISON, CO
END CTY : FARMINGTON, NM
DLY MLS : 306 MILES TOT MLS : 1790 MILES
3 crossings today, 4 total. 306 miles, 5.25 hrs, and 1790 overall... Shorter day in the mountains. Left Gunnison at 7700' in the 40s on HWY 149. 1st pass was 11530' but not a divide. 2nd pass was Spring Creek Pass at 10898' and to the Atlantic. Hwy 160 to Pagosa Springs. Over 9000' near Crede, CO where the headwaters of the Rio Grande are located. I crossed the RG several times. 3rd pass was Wolf Creek Pass at 10857' and to the Pacific. Then hwy 84-64 to Farmington, NM. 3rd (4th total) was 7275 in northern New Mexico- looked at the Atlantic and turned back to the Pacific. Had 39 mpg in cold head winds and 54 mpg in the warm mountains. Apache reservation started with pictures of WV with messy home areas. Ended up in 92 degree construction zone. Pissed over ads for "free" hot breakfast....for HIX. Farmington's (5550') economy is based on gas and oil extraction with all the support industries.. They are fracking big time here.
Day 5 - Wednesday - 5.28.14. South in New Mexico ...
STR CTY : SILVER CITY, NM :
END CTY : CHINLE, AZ
DLY MLS : 347 MILES TOT MLS : 2476
Indecision- to Silver City or rest here...debate/consulted..I shall go! Headed toward Silver City and some Divides at low 60s. Down 371 and went thru the Apache Reservation and scrub high land. Hit first 2 divides (7275') at 131-I40 so I passed into Atlantic and back to the Pacific drains. The villages reminded me of ZA townships with cars. Then into Lava fields of El Malpais Monument south of Grants NM and the surrounding rock cliffs high above (natural arches). Then Acoma Reservation and high desert. Had 3 more divide crossings on 60 and 12. I skipped several that were off route. Finally, crossed into the desert lands of Apache Reservation followed by grasslands. At one stop I talked with a NM cattie inspector who makes sure every animal in his area is branded and it takes 80 acres to maintain a cow-calf combination in his area (1.5 acres in WV). Then into a ponderosa area with big pines and flowers blooming. At 75 miles out I started to get pain in my side near the drain which felt like a bee stinging and I winced every time, following a sting on my heal and my thigh. Stopped and stripped down but did not find an insect and no more problems. Finally, went onto high grass lands and arrived at Silver City at 6k' at 403/2193 miles. Never below 5k' all day. The last transit of a divide was on the outskirts of town. Turned 90 degrees 100 miles out and hit 101 degrees for awhile... Thanks for AC. 7 crossings and 11 total to date.. And now in the Atlantic drain area. Pete Bankson and I stayed in Silver City when we went to the Gila Cliff Dwellings (30 miles away) in 2000 and Marnie and I stayed here one time. That trip I learned of Flannel Mullen as we encountered huge fields thereof.
Day 6 - Thursday - 5.29.14. Four Corners area..to Chinle Canyon Monument
STR CTY : SILVER CITY, NM
END CTY : CHINLE, AZ
DLY MLS : 347 MILES TOT MLS : 2476
Done riding at 1:30 with 347 miles and 2476 overall. Chinle is a Navajo Reservation city and monument area. This morning I left town at 60 degrees and never got over 84, but felt chilled all day even when the sun shone. Left town and passed over the Continental Divide...my last one between the US and northern Alberta that I could ride to easily. I back tracked 75 miles on 191 and then went over the mountains above 8k' twice into AZ. I passed thru Alpine where I thought I had stayed, but no motel. On to Springville and Eagar where I found my abode of many years ago. Staying above 6k' I progressed north thru the Petrified Forest-Painted Desert National Park. Finally, I went back on the Navajo Reservation and after 100 miles of many small towns and shambles, got to my motel-HI, with no X. I rode the entire town and could not see any housing or district which indicated prosperity beyond subsistence living.. there must not be any significant work here. There are a lot of parallels with ZA - family males must work away ( my waitress's father worked in construction and her grandfather on the railroad) and the mish-mash of rural areas look like the tribal areas with vehicles. Went up the rim of the Canyon De Chelly. To go into the canyon one must hire an Indian jeep and driver. In areas there are people living in the bottom where there is water and they have crops. Sinus pain due to high winds again. Navajo food for dinner - fry bread sandwich of ham and turkey with veggies thrown in.
Day 7 - Friday - 5.30.14 into Utah and an area I reminisced about all year.
STR CTY : CHINLE, AZ
END CTY : ST GEORGE, AZ
DLY MLS : 514 MILES TOT MLS : 3270
Left by 7 AM at 60 degrees on 191 and in 71 miles crossed into UT. Turned onto 95 and toward the Powell ferry...it was closed, so I continued north to Hanksville and east on 24 to Torrey. I went over 7100' and down to 3700' at the Colorado River. Then into the canyon for 40 miles where I lost my back bag last year. Thot it was a lot longer as I rode 60 miles in the canyon when I had to back track for my utility bag I lost. A lady had picked it up and when I proved it was mine she sent it to me. Beautiful... The place I planned to eat was closed for lunch, but it was nice to see the owner. Turned south on 12 to Bryce Canyon and went over 9600' in the national forest near Coral National Park. I came across many people running south in a team of 12 runners in a 2 day 100 miles each day race - "Top of the Zion". Lunch in Escalante where M and I stayed years ago. I passed Bryce and headed south on 12 toward St George. I got to ride thru the south entrance of Zion National Park..fantastic canyons.. At this point the temperature went above the 60-80 range and finally rose to 99 degrees at the HIX. Haven't seen any wild animals except 2 deer and road kill. I was trying to find a raccoon for Marnie..ask her why. 514 miles in neat country and 3270 overall...good week and tomorrow to California. Iowa, Kansas, Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah. Ended in Washington, AZ.
Week Two of Southwest and California. 2014
Day 8 - Saturday - 5.31.14 On to California ... Thru Death Valley..
STR CTY : ST GEORGE, AZ
END CTY : BISHOP, CA
DLY MLS : 423 MILES TOT MLS : 3476 MILES
423/3476 miles thru desert and more desert. Left early to beat the heat as it was 70 at 7 on I95 to LV. At 9 when I passed the Bundy’s at Bunkerville it turned 90. Gassed up north of downtown Las Vegas and moved on to Amargosa Valley where I gazed up at the station attached to a brothel. From there I went on 190 and into Death Valley starting about 2600' and 94 degrees. As I proceeded the elevation went down to -240 feet and temperature up to 104 degrees. As I headed for CA I went over 6k' and the temp dropped to 78 degs. As I stabilized at 3k' on 395 the temp ran in the 90s. Every landscape was desert regardless of the elevation or terrain. As I approached Lone Pine the Sierra Nevada's loomed high over 395. I rode along the mountains for 60 miles to Bishop where I am tonite. Nice to stop early to do the laundry... Upset with losing my Palm Highway program again.
Day 9 - Sunday - 6.1.14 Moving north in CA on hwy 395...
STR CTY : BISHOP, CA STR MLS : 15840
END CTY : BURNS, OR END MLS : 16418.0
DLY MLS : 577 MILES TOT MLS : 4093 MILES
TIME : 8 HOURS
I started at 5 to reconstruct Palm Highway data..on another Palm.. The cheapest gas in CA is $4.29 per gallon and mine was $4.69. 577 miles, never below 4000', over 8000' and never warmer than 80 degs. Left at 7 due to early arising and anxiety re Palm. Great and fast ride on the east side of the Sierra Nevada's in cool temps. Passed Lee Vining where I gassed on my way from SF to Ely last summer. Dipped into Nevada for Carson City and Reno, then back into California in the ranching areas all the way to the Oregon border. I see why they put the border where they did, as there is no agriculture in Oregon (the Great Basin) while CA has ag all the way to the border. In OR I passed several things they called lakes, but they were all dry..I do not remember them being dry the last 2xs I was here. Passed Paisley, of Cewaucan fame. 577 miles today / 4093 total. Oil added.
Day 10 - Monday - 6.2.14. Headed east toward home..
STR CTY : BURNS, OR STR MLS : 16418
END CTY : WEST YELLOWSTONE END MLS : 17001
DLY MLS : 578 MILES TOT MLS : 4631 MILES
TIME : 8.5 HOURS
578 and 4631 miles... Left at 7 as I lost time to Mountain time.. Above 4k' all the way to the west side of the Tetons where I rose to 6k'.. then 7000' at West Yellowstone to set up for a great ride tomorrow. Little time above 80 degrees. Traveled a new way in Oregon thru lots of irrigation farming and cattie for 200 miles. Just before Ontario and Boise ID the road dropped off 2k' and there started a 40 mile wide strip of intensive truck farming. Then I hit the interstate and after Boise I took off cross country on Hwy 20 going by the Craters of the Moon...another lava flow. This was a strong ag area except for the Craters area. I came out of the backcountry above Idaho Falls and 80 miles south of Yellowstone. Arrived for a free nite at HI. Most miles in a day ... Tired. Ribeye and salad with lots of blue cheese. ...and 2 Moose Drool beers. I saw a herd of antelope lying in a field... Air added - free oil from a lube place.
Day 11 - Tuesday - 6.3.14. Heading for Hwy 12 thru Yellowstone NP and Beartooth
STR CTY : WEST YELLOWSTONE STR MLS : 17001.0
END CTY : MILES CITY , MT END MLS : 17361.0
DLY MLS : 359 MILES TOT MLS : 4990 MILES
TIME : 6.5 HOURS
Fifth Continental Divide this year. Pass at 10k' .. Only 7 degrees above freezing this am. Off at 7:30 once it was close to 50 degs... And it did not rise thereabouts until Red Lodge. Went thru Yellowstone 89 miles and up to 8900 feet with much snow at high areas. Saw buffalo, elk, and more antelope. Came out at Cooke City and started on the Beartooth Highway. Went over 10.9k' in up to 12 foot walls of snow along the road. Very cold and nerve wracking cuz of rising and dropping thru hairpin turns. At Red Lodge the temp went to 74 and that held all the way even down to 2000' foot level in Miles City at 3:15 PM. 359 and 4990 miles. Paralleled the Yellowstone River once I left Red Lodge, MT very close to where it empties into the Missouri River. Will cross the Missouri in Mobridge, SD tomorrow. Ribs tonite at a great place at which I ate last August. Crossed Oregon, Idaho and Wyoming.. Getting ready to finish Montana
Day 12 - Wednesday - 6.4.14. Into and across South Dakota .. Hwy 12 to home.
STR CTY : MILES CITY , MT STR MLS : 17361.0
END CTY : MANKATO,MN END MLS : 18035
DLY MLS : 671 MILES TOT MLS : 5661 MILES
TIME : 10 HOURS
671 miles and 5661 overall.. Left in the cold 60s on neat country highways allowing 80 mph. 60 miles out a 60 mile wide area of clouds and dropping temperatures took over. An hour later with no rain, into the 70s and sunshine again. The whole area is dedicated to agriculture but a lot of the early fields were not planted until I passed Mobridge. I had been dreaming of a bakery since early am and I finally found a new one in Roscoe- ate to my heart’s content and went to say hi to grandma (1989) and grandma (1985) at the cemetery.. Headstone still looks straight. Got to Ipswich early and did not want to sit around, so I decided to continue to the border.. By 5 the temp was perfect and the winds subsided so I figured I'd move on and look for a motel...ended up in Mankato HIX... 287 miles home tomorrow. Ate at Five Guys tonite..not healthy but tasty and filling.
Day 13 - Thursday - 6.5.14. To HOME
STR CTY : MANKATO, MN STR MLS : 18035.
END CTY : HOME END MLS : 18319
DLY MLS : 282 MILES TOT MLS : 5943 MILES
TIME : 4..5 HOURS NOTES : WIND
Started with great temperature but at 75 mph I had a cross wind of 40 knots causing a struggling lean and buffeting. To Rochester to I90 to Mississippi to LaCrosse. Took 14 thru the country side and less wind thru Richland Center, Spring Green, and Mazomanie. 282 miles, total of 5943 total gps miles, and 6034 miles on odometer - 2:30 pm arrival.
Day 1 - Saturday - 5.24.14 leaving home...again! Made Topeka...
STR CTY : HOME
END CTY : TOPEKA, KS
DLY MLS : 563 TOT MLS : 563 MILES
Capital of Kansas and the home of Brownback. In spite of not wanting to.. 563 miles in 8.5 hours because there were no vacancies in KC..Royals and little league was in town and NHRA was in this area.. Got the last room for 100 miles... 4 periods of sprinkles .. 50 degrees till 10 AM, 60 till noon and not over 75 the rest of the day. Only 14 minutes of sun. Got a free room with points..only 10,000. I left 4 lane at Iowa City and then went cross country through Iowa & Missouri for over 280 miles...then back on I 35-70 to Topeka. Averaged over 66 mph traveling. I am currently at the same distance from the IN farm as Madison. Stayed in this vicinity in October '12 on my way to CA with 2011 RT. Hu Hut for dinner..2 nites in a row, too much food..
Day 2 - Sunday - 5.25.14 on to 50 and toward Colorado...
STR CTY : TOPEKA, KS
END CTY : LA JUNTA, CO
DLY MLS : 510 MILES TOT MLS : 1072 MILES
My feet are soaked and warm but all else has dried out in the last 300 miles and 70-80 heat. 510 miles in 7.5 hours and 1072 total. Left Topeka on 70 at 8am on the first part of the interstate built as it honored Eisenhower running to Abilene. The road was very rough... Needed to lower my tire air pressure to get a decent ride. After 140 miles I headed southwest on 56 and 20 miles down the road the temperature dropped to 62 and a downpour started..nowhere to stop for the 30 miles of rain. Got to Larned when it stopped and I did not .. Got side tracked by the Kansas state forensic hospital - huge with many facilities. Back on the road and hit hwy 50 at 200 miles. The areas I passed thru were mostly grass lands, grazing cattle. Stopped in Dodge City to recoup my morale and have a coke and gas up. Beautiful entry mosaic - . Along 50 I hit wheat farms with huge irrigated fields, cattle feedlots (mostly Holstein cattle- dairy culls), and huge butcher-freezer plants. At one location I entered a huge wind farm. As I entered I had a strong following wind, but by the middle it had come around 150 degree to the quarter. Finally, as I rose above 2k' the land became dry and brown, only showing growth where irrigated with mostly alfalfa and feed grains. The frontal or quartering wind was so strong as to hurt my sinuses. My feet were the only rain residual. In La Junta CO tonite at HIX - first inn I could find from Dodge City. Ate Chinese and early sleep.
Day 3 - Monday - Memorial Day - 5.26.14 On to the mountains
STR CTY : LA JUNTA, CO
END CTY : GUNNISON, CO
DLY MLS : 427 MILES TOT MLS : 1483 MILES
Up late- 7 - and leisurely breakfast. 40% chance of rain in both start and finish and very cold - 30s - in the mountains. I started at 4k' and travelled 120 miles on level irrigated hand crops. At Pueblo I was at 5k' and entered the Arkansas River Canyon (have crossed the Arkansas River at least 6 times yesterday) leading to Salida and 6k'. As I entered the first row of mountains - a beautiful snowy sight (like Estes and Glacier would be now). At this point I was 70 miles from Gunnison and thought of riding a loop north on 291 and west on 82 to Aspen after checking into the HIX. But I could save a lot of miles if I just went to Aspen first, so I set out north at 7k'. I made my first continental divide transit this year at Independence Pass over 12000'+ in the snow. This changes from the Atlantic to Pacific drainage areas. Up and down the mountain pass every parking place was full of cars of skiers, snowboarders, and sledders. It was 45 degrees with 4 feet of remaining snow. Aspen was very busy so I moved on..amazed how much it has developed. At Carbondale I turned south on 133-92-50 and went back into the mountains to over 8700' where the first sign said no gas for 60 miles and at 70 miles said no gas for 80 miles. Past Black Canyon and along the Gunnison River. The aspen trees were beautiful..you could see every white trunk like pillars with a hint of light spring green cloud of budding leaves surrounding the whole heavily wooded areas - mountain-side after glen. Checked in after 427 miles and 1483 overall. AM IN THE MOUNTAINS NOW! My nose is red, swollen and off to the left. Sun all day but 45 deg at 12000' and only 70 below 8000'.
Day 4 - Tuesday - 5.27.14. To Farmington NM on the Continental Divide.
STR CTY : GUNNISON, CO
END CTY : FARMINGTON, NM
DLY MLS : 306 MILES TOT MLS : 1790 MILES
3 crossings today, 4 total. 306 miles, 5.25 hrs, and 1790 overall... Shorter day in the mountains. Left Gunnison at 7700' in the 40s on HWY 149. 1st pass was 11530' but not a divide. 2nd pass was Spring Creek Pass at 10898' and to the Atlantic. Hwy 160 to Pagosa Springs. Over 9000' near Crede, CO where the headwaters of the Rio Grande are located. I crossed the RG several times. 3rd pass was Wolf Creek Pass at 10857' and to the Pacific. Then hwy 84-64 to Farmington, NM. 3rd (4th total) was 7275 in northern New Mexico- looked at the Atlantic and turned back to the Pacific. Had 39 mpg in cold head winds and 54 mpg in the warm mountains. Apache reservation started with pictures of WV with messy home areas. Ended up in 92 degree construction zone. Pissed over ads for "free" hot breakfast....for HIX. Farmington's (5550') economy is based on gas and oil extraction with all the support industries.. They are fracking big time here.
Day 5 - Wednesday - 5.28.14. South in New Mexico ...
STR CTY : SILVER CITY, NM :
END CTY : CHINLE, AZ
DLY MLS : 347 MILES TOT MLS : 2476
Indecision- to Silver City or rest here...debate/consulted..I shall go! Headed toward Silver City and some Divides at low 60s. Down 371 and went thru the Apache Reservation and scrub high land. Hit first 2 divides (7275') at 131-I40 so I passed into Atlantic and back to the Pacific drains. The villages reminded me of ZA townships with cars. Then into Lava fields of El Malpais Monument south of Grants NM and the surrounding rock cliffs high above (natural arches). Then Acoma Reservation and high desert. Had 3 more divide crossings on 60 and 12. I skipped several that were off route. Finally, crossed into the desert lands of Apache Reservation followed by grasslands. At one stop I talked with a NM cattie inspector who makes sure every animal in his area is branded and it takes 80 acres to maintain a cow-calf combination in his area (1.5 acres in WV). Then into a ponderosa area with big pines and flowers blooming. At 75 miles out I started to get pain in my side near the drain which felt like a bee stinging and I winced every time, following a sting on my heal and my thigh. Stopped and stripped down but did not find an insect and no more problems. Finally, went onto high grass lands and arrived at Silver City at 6k' at 403/2193 miles. Never below 5k' all day. The last transit of a divide was on the outskirts of town. Turned 90 degrees 100 miles out and hit 101 degrees for awhile... Thanks for AC. 7 crossings and 11 total to date.. And now in the Atlantic drain area. Pete Bankson and I stayed in Silver City when we went to the Gila Cliff Dwellings (30 miles away) in 2000 and Marnie and I stayed here one time. That trip I learned of Flannel Mullen as we encountered huge fields thereof.
Day 6 - Thursday - 5.29.14. Four Corners area..to Chinle Canyon Monument
STR CTY : SILVER CITY, NM
END CTY : CHINLE, AZ
DLY MLS : 347 MILES TOT MLS : 2476
Done riding at 1:30 with 347 miles and 2476 overall. Chinle is a Navajo Reservation city and monument area. This morning I left town at 60 degrees and never got over 84, but felt chilled all day even when the sun shone. Left town and passed over the Continental Divide...my last one between the US and northern Alberta that I could ride to easily. I back tracked 75 miles on 191 and then went over the mountains above 8k' twice into AZ. I passed thru Alpine where I thought I had stayed, but no motel. On to Springville and Eagar where I found my abode of many years ago. Staying above 6k' I progressed north thru the Petrified Forest-Painted Desert National Park. Finally, I went back on the Navajo Reservation and after 100 miles of many small towns and shambles, got to my motel-HI, with no X. I rode the entire town and could not see any housing or district which indicated prosperity beyond subsistence living.. there must not be any significant work here. There are a lot of parallels with ZA - family males must work away ( my waitress's father worked in construction and her grandfather on the railroad) and the mish-mash of rural areas look like the tribal areas with vehicles. Went up the rim of the Canyon De Chelly. To go into the canyon one must hire an Indian jeep and driver. In areas there are people living in the bottom where there is water and they have crops. Sinus pain due to high winds again. Navajo food for dinner - fry bread sandwich of ham and turkey with veggies thrown in.
Day 7 - Friday - 5.30.14 into Utah and an area I reminisced about all year.
STR CTY : CHINLE, AZ
END CTY : ST GEORGE, AZ
DLY MLS : 514 MILES TOT MLS : 3270
Left by 7 AM at 60 degrees on 191 and in 71 miles crossed into UT. Turned onto 95 and toward the Powell ferry...it was closed, so I continued north to Hanksville and east on 24 to Torrey. I went over 7100' and down to 3700' at the Colorado River. Then into the canyon for 40 miles where I lost my back bag last year. Thot it was a lot longer as I rode 60 miles in the canyon when I had to back track for my utility bag I lost. A lady had picked it up and when I proved it was mine she sent it to me. Beautiful... The place I planned to eat was closed for lunch, but it was nice to see the owner. Turned south on 12 to Bryce Canyon and went over 9600' in the national forest near Coral National Park. I came across many people running south in a team of 12 runners in a 2 day 100 miles each day race - "Top of the Zion". Lunch in Escalante where M and I stayed years ago. I passed Bryce and headed south on 12 toward St George. I got to ride thru the south entrance of Zion National Park..fantastic canyons.. At this point the temperature went above the 60-80 range and finally rose to 99 degrees at the HIX. Haven't seen any wild animals except 2 deer and road kill. I was trying to find a raccoon for Marnie..ask her why. 514 miles in neat country and 3270 overall...good week and tomorrow to California. Iowa, Kansas, Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah. Ended in Washington, AZ.
Week Two of Southwest and California. 2014
Day 8 - Saturday - 5.31.14 On to California ... Thru Death Valley..
STR CTY : ST GEORGE, AZ
END CTY : BISHOP, CA
DLY MLS : 423 MILES TOT MLS : 3476 MILES
423/3476 miles thru desert and more desert. Left early to beat the heat as it was 70 at 7 on I95 to LV. At 9 when I passed the Bundy’s at Bunkerville it turned 90. Gassed up north of downtown Las Vegas and moved on to Amargosa Valley where I gazed up at the station attached to a brothel. From there I went on 190 and into Death Valley starting about 2600' and 94 degrees. As I proceeded the elevation went down to -240 feet and temperature up to 104 degrees. As I headed for CA I went over 6k' and the temp dropped to 78 degs. As I stabilized at 3k' on 395 the temp ran in the 90s. Every landscape was desert regardless of the elevation or terrain. As I approached Lone Pine the Sierra Nevada's loomed high over 395. I rode along the mountains for 60 miles to Bishop where I am tonite. Nice to stop early to do the laundry... Upset with losing my Palm Highway program again.
Day 9 - Sunday - 6.1.14 Moving north in CA on hwy 395...
STR CTY : BISHOP, CA STR MLS : 15840
END CTY : BURNS, OR END MLS : 16418.0
DLY MLS : 577 MILES TOT MLS : 4093 MILES
TIME : 8 HOURS
I started at 5 to reconstruct Palm Highway data..on another Palm.. The cheapest gas in CA is $4.29 per gallon and mine was $4.69. 577 miles, never below 4000', over 8000' and never warmer than 80 degs. Left at 7 due to early arising and anxiety re Palm. Great and fast ride on the east side of the Sierra Nevada's in cool temps. Passed Lee Vining where I gassed on my way from SF to Ely last summer. Dipped into Nevada for Carson City and Reno, then back into California in the ranching areas all the way to the Oregon border. I see why they put the border where they did, as there is no agriculture in Oregon (the Great Basin) while CA has ag all the way to the border. In OR I passed several things they called lakes, but they were all dry..I do not remember them being dry the last 2xs I was here. Passed Paisley, of Cewaucan fame. 577 miles today / 4093 total. Oil added.
Day 10 - Monday - 6.2.14. Headed east toward home..
STR CTY : BURNS, OR STR MLS : 16418
END CTY : WEST YELLOWSTONE END MLS : 17001
DLY MLS : 578 MILES TOT MLS : 4631 MILES
TIME : 8.5 HOURS
578 and 4631 miles... Left at 7 as I lost time to Mountain time.. Above 4k' all the way to the west side of the Tetons where I rose to 6k'.. then 7000' at West Yellowstone to set up for a great ride tomorrow. Little time above 80 degrees. Traveled a new way in Oregon thru lots of irrigation farming and cattie for 200 miles. Just before Ontario and Boise ID the road dropped off 2k' and there started a 40 mile wide strip of intensive truck farming. Then I hit the interstate and after Boise I took off cross country on Hwy 20 going by the Craters of the Moon...another lava flow. This was a strong ag area except for the Craters area. I came out of the backcountry above Idaho Falls and 80 miles south of Yellowstone. Arrived for a free nite at HI. Most miles in a day ... Tired. Ribeye and salad with lots of blue cheese. ...and 2 Moose Drool beers. I saw a herd of antelope lying in a field... Air added - free oil from a lube place.
Day 11 - Tuesday - 6.3.14. Heading for Hwy 12 thru Yellowstone NP and Beartooth
STR CTY : WEST YELLOWSTONE STR MLS : 17001.0
END CTY : MILES CITY , MT END MLS : 17361.0
DLY MLS : 359 MILES TOT MLS : 4990 MILES
TIME : 6.5 HOURS
Fifth Continental Divide this year. Pass at 10k' .. Only 7 degrees above freezing this am. Off at 7:30 once it was close to 50 degs... And it did not rise thereabouts until Red Lodge. Went thru Yellowstone 89 miles and up to 8900 feet with much snow at high areas. Saw buffalo, elk, and more antelope. Came out at Cooke City and started on the Beartooth Highway. Went over 10.9k' in up to 12 foot walls of snow along the road. Very cold and nerve wracking cuz of rising and dropping thru hairpin turns. At Red Lodge the temp went to 74 and that held all the way even down to 2000' foot level in Miles City at 3:15 PM. 359 and 4990 miles. Paralleled the Yellowstone River once I left Red Lodge, MT very close to where it empties into the Missouri River. Will cross the Missouri in Mobridge, SD tomorrow. Ribs tonite at a great place at which I ate last August. Crossed Oregon, Idaho and Wyoming.. Getting ready to finish Montana
Day 12 - Wednesday - 6.4.14. Into and across South Dakota .. Hwy 12 to home.
STR CTY : MILES CITY , MT STR MLS : 17361.0
END CTY : MANKATO,MN END MLS : 18035
DLY MLS : 671 MILES TOT MLS : 5661 MILES
TIME : 10 HOURS
671 miles and 5661 overall.. Left in the cold 60s on neat country highways allowing 80 mph. 60 miles out a 60 mile wide area of clouds and dropping temperatures took over. An hour later with no rain, into the 70s and sunshine again. The whole area is dedicated to agriculture but a lot of the early fields were not planted until I passed Mobridge. I had been dreaming of a bakery since early am and I finally found a new one in Roscoe- ate to my heart’s content and went to say hi to grandma (1989) and grandma (1985) at the cemetery.. Headstone still looks straight. Got to Ipswich early and did not want to sit around, so I decided to continue to the border.. By 5 the temp was perfect and the winds subsided so I figured I'd move on and look for a motel...ended up in Mankato HIX... 287 miles home tomorrow. Ate at Five Guys tonite..not healthy but tasty and filling.
Day 13 - Thursday - 6.5.14. To HOME
STR CTY : MANKATO, MN STR MLS : 18035.
END CTY : HOME END MLS : 18319
DLY MLS : 282 MILES TOT MLS : 5943 MILES
TIME : 4..5 HOURS NOTES : WIND
Started with great temperature but at 75 mph I had a cross wind of 40 knots causing a struggling lean and buffeting. To Rochester to I90 to Mississippi to LaCrosse. Took 14 thru the country side and less wind thru Richland Center, Spring Green, and Mazomanie. 282 miles, total of 5943 total gps miles, and 6034 miles on odometer - 2:30 pm arrival.
Sunday, May 18, 2014
TRIP EAST 2014 ... last state= VERMONT
Week One ---- Spring 2014 East
Day 1 - Monday - 5.5.14. 413 miles to
Bloomington IN...
Str Cty
: Madison Str Mls : 40730
End Cty
: Bloomngton End Mls : 41176
Dly Mls
: 414 Miles Tot Mls : 414
Miles
Time
: 7 Hours Notes : cold
\ hot
Left at 47 degrees and added clothes. Not warm until south of
Bloomington IL...Started taking them off at 82 deg in Decatur. I'm not as strong as last year and I pulled a
muscle in my right arm. Only mild
seizure-side pain periodically. By the time I arrived in Decatur all that
flowers was doing so and I saw some field corn showing. All the ground was worked and everything but
beans was in the ground. Arrived in Bloomington IN at 6 pm after a nice ride
thru the countryside. Normal, Decatur, Mattoon, Spencer, Ellettsville and here.
Dinner was included at the HIExp.
Day 2 -
Tuesday - 5.6.14 Caddy –
Kentucky/Tennessee
-- 344 miles.
Str Cty
: Bloomngton Str
Mls :
41176
End Cty
: Lenior, TN End
Mls :
41534
Dly Mls
: 344 Miles Tot
Mls :
758 Miles
Time
: 6.5 Hours
Left at 8:30 and rode south out of
Bloomington to Paoli and caught highway 150, a great road for motorcycles.
After crossing the Ohio River at Brandenburg I cut diagonally South-East on 2
lane roads. In south Kentucky I got on 129 beside Cumberland Lake..another
great motorcycle road ... as it led into Tennessee.. 27 was a continuation of
over and around..and going over 1500 feet in elevation. When I stopped in the
shade to get out of the 90 deg sun, I recognized the store and overhang as a
place where Paul and I waited out rain on our trip to HH last year. Arrived in
Lenior City, TN HIExp exhausted and aching in my right arm. Salad at Ruby
Tuesday's. Diarrhea all day.
Day 3 - Wednesday - 5.7.14 Blue Ridge to Asheville - 200 miles
Str Cty : Lenior City,TN Str Mls : 41534
End Cty : Asheville End Mls
: 41743
Dly Mls
:
200 Miles Tot Mls : 958
Miles
Time
: 4.9 Hours
Remembered my exercises this morning. Short day, hard
ride...up-down-left-right... Down 127 to 129 and, by accident, the Dragon (318
turns in 11 miles). Then thru Cherokee and Bryson City to the Blue Ridge
Parkway. After 70 miles, going over 6600' I arrived in Asheville. At this
elevation the conditions were pre-spring and many trees/bushes were flowering.
Like last year I went to the HIExp that was sold and I had to back track. Will
rest this afternoon and take a jaunt into town (It was very busy so I left.).
Dinner late.
Day 4 - Thursday - 5.8.14. On the BRP to Lexington, Va... 377 mis
Str Cty
: Asheville, NC Str Mls :
41743
End Cty
: Lexington, VA End Mls :
42174
Dly Mls
: 397 Miles Tot
Mls :
1335 Miles
Time
: 7.75 Hours Notes :
Blue Ridge Parkway
Dumped my bike and skinned my knee..but no marks on the bike. Undulating
between pre- and post- spring... Left and right tight in the beginning with
less turning toward the end. Rising to 5500' and averaged 3000'. Very hot, like
90, by the end of the ride. Some bushes were blooming but laurel had not
bloomed anywhere. Got to Nell's about 4:00 and visited for an hour. She
recognized me immediately ... Back tonite and again in the morning.
Day 5 -
Friday - 5.9.14 Shenandoah
National Park 105 miles/362 miles tot
Str Cty
: Lexington, VA Str Mls :
42154
End Cty
: Frackville, PA End Mls :
42549
Dly Mls
: 362 Miles Tot
Mls :
1698 Miles
Time
: 7.75 Hours Notes :
Skyline Drive 105
Very difficult visiting with Nell... It is difficult to have a
conversation with her as she limits her talk and her memory is very limited.
Rode 45 miles on the BRP and immediately entered the Shenandoah National Park
riding the Skyline Drive. It was pre-spring the entire length, except for the
sudden warmed area near Front Royal. No fields had been worked, even where the
areas were closer to summer. I ended up in 2 traffic jams in and around
Harrisburg, PA which delayed my progress. I rode the expressways to Harrisburg
and toward Scranton. At a HIExp in Frackville- worst and most uncivil HI I have
stayed at...over priced, below HI standards. Dinner was a bowl of clam
chowder...eating too much and poorly. Prepared for 60% chance of rain tonite
and tomorrow.
Day 6 - Saturday - 5.10.14 toward Vermont
in the sunshine...
Str Cty
: Frackville, PA Str Mls :
42549
End Cty
: Burlington, VT End Mls :
42961
Dly Mls
: 411 Miles Tot
Mls :
2109 Miles
Time
: 7.5 Hours Notes :
toured UVM x Burlington
The 49th and last state to ride... Burlington at 4 PM with 400 miles and
2051 total to date. Expected rain as 60% reported! but got up to last nite's
sprinkle and the sunshine. Rode every conceivable type of road- toll,
interstate, federal and state highways, county roads, streets - in a very
roundabout way to get here. Went thru PA, NJ, NY, MA, and into Vt. I cannot
retrace the roads. Rode thru Middlebury and the college.. Beautiful! I also
rode thru Williams College in Williamstown, MA.. Most areas were pre-spring and
none of the fields had been worked. I toured UVM and Burlington...impressive.
... I shall move here... Nice new buildings on campus, fixed up old buildings,
and the Main Street in Burlington is now a walk street..place looks to be thriving.
My right shoulder is hurting when I ride..Aleve takes the pain away.
Day 7 - Sunday - 5.11.14. Mothers
Day. Midddlebury and beyond...
Str Cty
: Burlington, VT Str Mls :
42976
End Cty
: North Conway,NH End
Mls :
43312
Dly Mls
: 328 Miles Tot
Mls :
2422 Miles
Time
: 7.25 Hours Notes :
VT + NH
Up late
and loafed until I was sure the Gordon's might be up..arrived there at 10 and
visited with nephews Chris and Todd, brother-in-law Howard, Trish and the kids
for an hour. Then on to Middlebury for a ride around town. 72 Court is
ramshackled. I went to east Middlebury to over the mountain on 125 but the
bridge was out so I had to go down to Brandon Gap. Luck would have it I found
and stopped at Chittenden Brook (the name-source for our farms and our family
campgrounds) Campgrounds and took a picture. Then I went up to the college
SnowBowl ski area (where I skied patrol in ‘67) and took a picture for Kelzie
(skied ’00). Finally, I found the Newton’s place and sent Paul a picture. I
rode past Ben and Jerry's theme place and unbelievably did not stop. Then to
Stowe and Mt. Mansfield. After a 100 more miles to Newport, VT where I could not
find a suitable place to stay, I ventured over to New Hampshire and started
south. I did not find a place to stay- either closed or not attended to- so I
gps'd a HIExp 60 miles south in North Conway.
After making a reservation I turned a corner and had 3 motel choices and
another 50 before I arrived in North Conway covering 328 miles and over 2400
total. This is another over-controlling inn that will not let me park under
cover.. 3rd in 14 years and 2 in this week. Exhausted and way ahead of where I
wanted to be tonite. As I was unpacking
my bike I discovered that the retaining nuts for the rear light module had come
loose and the module was hanging down in back. I found one nut and need to get
another tomorrow. 3 of 7 stays have limited my parking. Seafood dinner...but it does not aleve my
anger. Out of the Green Mountains of VT and into the White Mountains of NH.
Week Two - Spring East to Ride Vermont
Day 8 - Monday - 5.12.14 Newick’s Lobster
House and laundry day
Str Cty : North
Conway, NH Str Mls :
43312
End Cty :
Biddeford, ME End Mls :
44782
Dly Mls
: 200
Miles Tot Mls :
2544 Miles
Time
: 5.5
Hours
Up at 5 angry I stayed at this inn.. Exercises and on the road by 7
looking for tire air and a place to get nuts for my rear light module. Found
both in Ossipee, NH and made necessary repairs which held at the next check
point. I had a nice morning ride 80 miles down NH. I arrived at Newick's
Lobster House (a place we have eaten at for 40 years) at 9am and was so tired I
laid on the grass and slept for 2.5 hours. Shortly after I got a table and Jim
Chamberlain arrived (old friend from Illinois State days). We had a 2 hr chat
over seafood lunches. He works as the bookkeeper for his church and does some
odd cad work as a consultant, otherwise he's retired from teaching. I then rode
Hwy 1 up the coast to Biddeford for the night.. it was apparent this HIExp is excellent
and I was comfortable immediately. Talked to Nook and John Werner (IU friend)
and prepared my laundry. 2450 miles so far, but only 123 miles today. Laundry was done. Dinner of fried clams in
Kennebunk...did not see any Bushs. 3 Ladies next to me ran up a $171 bill..I
spent less than $25.
Day 9 - Tuesday - 5.13.14. Rest day in
Biddeford, ME.
Overcast and cold....best place to rest.. Leave tomorrow.. Half dozen
HORTONS donuts for dinner. Reading "A Fortunate Life"..
Day 10 - Wednesday - 5.14.14 Moving west
Str Cty
: Biddeford, ME Str Mls :
43445
End Cty
: Pembroke, ON End Mls :
43948
Dly Mls
: 467 Miles Tot
Mls :
3011 Miles
Time
: 9 Hours
Thru Maine on country roads until I got back to Conway. There I picked
up the road called "Kancamgus" and went over 2800' in the White
Mountains. I skipped Franconia notch as the face fell off. Crossed into Vermont
on the Scott Memorial Highway and went up to 1800' in the Green Mountains. When
I hit the expressway I avoided Ben and Jerry's wonderland. Arrived in south
Burlington at 11 am and cancelled my reservation for the nite. Then went into
New York State and the Adirondack Mountains. Stayed on level ground and crossed
the Canadian Border at Massena, NY-Cornwall. Up to hwy 417 and onto 17. A huge
traffic jam in Ottawa of gawkers looking at a terrible crash in the other
direction. Very tired for the last 100 of 467 miles and 3304 total. Dinner at a SW cowboy bar.
Day 11 - Thursday - 5.15.14. 2nd worst day since '98- 412 miles.
Str Cty
: Pembroke, ON Str Mls
: 43948
End Cty
: Sault Ste Marie, MI End Mls
: 44385
Dly Mls
: 422 Miles Tot Mls :
3434 Miles
Ti me
: 6.75 Hours Notes : 300 Miles in RAIN
Off at 7:30 between sprinkles. After 80 miles it began to rain and
increased in volume as I stopped at Sudbury for gas at half way - 200 miles.
Instead of going to the HI I went back to the Trans Canada Hwy #7. I was
punished with more rain and dropping temperatures. Feet were soaked and frozen,
rain pants leaked around seat, hands were dry but cold, and mask kept steaming
up. The rain kept up until 20 miles from Sault Ste. Marie. I stopped every 50
miles to warm over a HORTONS coffee and a few donuts. I crossed the border and
decided to go to the HIExp to get dry and warm. Dried clothes in the laundry
and showered. No dinner because I am not going out in the rain.
Day 12 - Friday - 5.16.14 on to Mischlers and home with Marnie
Str Cty : Sault
Ste Marie, MI Str Mls :
44385
End Cty :
Madison End Mls :
44782
Dly Mls
: 384
Miles Tot Mls :
3808 Miles
Time
: 5.5
Hours
Up at 7 to 29 deg so took time preparing and doing exercises. Put all
clothes on and made a cowboy face covering. Stopped every 50 miles which went
fast as I drove 80 on the empty roads of northern Michigan. 20 miles out it
started snowing and soon the trees and ground were covered while the roads were
just moist. The temperature did not start to rise above the mid forties until I
crossed into Wisconsin. Stopped in Green Bay to buy riding gloves and moved on
in the sun and 50 degrees. Marnie met me at Mischlers where I left my bike for
service. Home by 3:30. Dinner with the Gilliland’s at the Vietnamese
restaurant. 384 miles today and 3803
miles for the trip...12 days.
COST: TOTAL DAILY/12 NOTES
TOTAL : 1617.02 134.75 .40 / MILE
FUEL : 325.95 27.16 .08 / MILE
ROOM : 1025.08 93.19 .26 / MILE
FOOD : 216.48 18.04 .05 / MILE
MISC : 49.51 4.13
.001 / MILE
MILES : Speedo = 4052 miles gps = 3808 miles
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