Southwest & California....2014
Day 1 - Saturday - 5.24.14 leaving home...again! Made Topeka...
STR CTY : HOME
END CTY : TOPEKA, KS
DLY MLS : 563 TOT MLS : 563 MILES
Capital of Kansas and the home of Brownback. In spite of not wanting to.. 563 miles in 8.5 hours because there were no vacancies in KC..Royals and little league was in town and NHRA was in this area.. Got the last room for 100 miles... 4 periods of sprinkles .. 50 degrees till 10 AM, 60 till noon and not over 75 the rest of the day. Only 14 minutes of sun. Got a free room with points..only 10,000. I left 4 lane at Iowa City and then went cross country through Iowa & Missouri for over 280 miles...then back on I 35-70 to Topeka. Averaged over 66 mph traveling. I am currently at the same distance from the IN farm as Madison. Stayed in this vicinity in October '12 on my way to CA with 2011 RT. Hu Hut for dinner..2 nites in a row, too much food..
Day 2 - Sunday - 5.25.14 on to 50 and toward Colorado...
STR CTY : TOPEKA, KS
END CTY : LA JUNTA, CO
DLY MLS : 510 MILES TOT MLS : 1072 MILES
My feet are soaked and warm but all else has dried out in the last 300 miles and 70-80 heat. 510 miles in 7.5 hours and 1072 total. Left Topeka on 70 at 8am on the first part of the interstate built as it honored Eisenhower running to Abilene. The road was very rough... Needed to lower my tire air pressure to get a decent ride. After 140 miles I headed southwest on 56 and 20 miles down the road the temperature dropped to 62 and a downpour started..nowhere to stop for the 30 miles of rain. Got to Larned when it stopped and I did not .. Got side tracked by the Kansas state forensic hospital - huge with many facilities. Back on the road and hit hwy 50 at 200 miles. The areas I passed thru were mostly grass lands, grazing cattle. Stopped in Dodge City to recoup my morale and have a coke and gas up. Beautiful entry mosaic - . Along 50 I hit wheat farms with huge irrigated fields, cattle feedlots (mostly Holstein cattle- dairy culls), and huge butcher-freezer plants. At one location I entered a huge wind farm. As I entered I had a strong following wind, but by the middle it had come around 150 degree to the quarter. Finally, as I rose above 2k' the land became dry and brown, only showing growth where irrigated with mostly alfalfa and feed grains. The frontal or quartering wind was so strong as to hurt my sinuses. My feet were the only rain residual. In La Junta CO tonite at HIX - first inn I could find from Dodge City. Ate Chinese and early sleep.
Day 3 - Monday - Memorial Day - 5.26.14 On to the mountains
STR CTY : LA JUNTA, CO
END CTY : GUNNISON, CO
DLY MLS : 427 MILES TOT MLS : 1483 MILES
Up late- 7 - and leisurely breakfast. 40% chance of rain in both start and finish and very cold - 30s - in the mountains. I started at 4k' and travelled 120 miles on level irrigated hand crops. At Pueblo I was at 5k' and entered the Arkansas River Canyon (have crossed the Arkansas River at least 6 times yesterday) leading to Salida and 6k'. As I entered the first row of mountains - a beautiful snowy sight (like Estes and Glacier would be now). At this point I was 70 miles from Gunnison and thought of riding a loop north on 291 and west on 82 to Aspen after checking into the HIX. But I could save a lot of miles if I just went to Aspen first, so I set out north at 7k'. I made my first continental divide transit this year at Independence Pass over 12000'+ in the snow. This changes from the Atlantic to Pacific drainage areas. Up and down the mountain pass every parking place was full of cars of skiers, snowboarders, and sledders. It was 45 degrees with 4 feet of remaining snow. Aspen was very busy so I moved on..amazed how much it has developed. At Carbondale I turned south on 133-92-50 and went back into the mountains to over 8700' where the first sign said no gas for 60 miles and at 70 miles said no gas for 80 miles. Past Black Canyon and along the Gunnison River. The aspen trees were beautiful..you could see every white trunk like pillars with a hint of light spring green cloud of budding leaves surrounding the whole heavily wooded areas - mountain-side after glen. Checked in after 427 miles and 1483 overall. AM IN THE MOUNTAINS NOW! My nose is red, swollen and off to the left. Sun all day but 45 deg at 12000' and only 70 below 8000'.
Day 4 - Tuesday - 5.27.14. To Farmington NM on the Continental Divide.
STR CTY : GUNNISON, CO
END CTY : FARMINGTON, NM
DLY MLS : 306 MILES TOT MLS : 1790 MILES
3 crossings today, 4 total. 306 miles, 5.25 hrs, and 1790 overall... Shorter day in the mountains. Left Gunnison at 7700' in the 40s on HWY 149. 1st pass was 11530' but not a divide. 2nd pass was Spring Creek Pass at 10898' and to the Atlantic. Hwy 160 to Pagosa Springs. Over 9000' near Crede, CO where the headwaters of the Rio Grande are located. I crossed the RG several times. 3rd pass was Wolf Creek Pass at 10857' and to the Pacific. Then hwy 84-64 to Farmington, NM. 3rd (4th total) was 7275 in northern New Mexico- looked at the Atlantic and turned back to the Pacific. Had 39 mpg in cold head winds and 54 mpg in the warm mountains. Apache reservation started with pictures of WV with messy home areas. Ended up in 92 degree construction zone. Pissed over ads for "free" hot breakfast....for HIX. Farmington's (5550') economy is based on gas and oil extraction with all the support industries.. They are fracking big time here.
Day 5 - Wednesday - 5.28.14. South in New Mexico ...
STR CTY : SILVER CITY, NM :
END CTY : CHINLE, AZ
DLY MLS : 347 MILES TOT MLS : 2476
Indecision- to Silver City or rest here...debate/consulted..I shall go! Headed toward Silver City and some Divides at low 60s. Down 371 and went thru the Apache Reservation and scrub high land. Hit first 2 divides (7275') at 131-I40 so I passed into Atlantic and back to the Pacific drains. The villages reminded me of ZA townships with cars. Then into Lava fields of El Malpais Monument south of Grants NM and the surrounding rock cliffs high above (natural arches). Then Acoma Reservation and high desert. Had 3 more divide crossings on 60 and 12. I skipped several that were off route. Finally, crossed into the desert lands of Apache Reservation followed by grasslands. At one stop I talked with a NM cattie inspector who makes sure every animal in his area is branded and it takes 80 acres to maintain a cow-calf combination in his area (1.5 acres in WV). Then into a ponderosa area with big pines and flowers blooming. At 75 miles out I started to get pain in my side near the drain which felt like a bee stinging and I winced every time, following a sting on my heal and my thigh. Stopped and stripped down but did not find an insect and no more problems. Finally, went onto high grass lands and arrived at Silver City at 6k' at 403/2193 miles. Never below 5k' all day. The last transit of a divide was on the outskirts of town. Turned 90 degrees 100 miles out and hit 101 degrees for awhile... Thanks for AC. 7 crossings and 11 total to date.. And now in the Atlantic drain area. Pete Bankson and I stayed in Silver City when we went to the Gila Cliff Dwellings (30 miles away) in 2000 and Marnie and I stayed here one time. That trip I learned of Flannel Mullen as we encountered huge fields thereof.
Day 6 - Thursday - 5.29.14. Four Corners area..to Chinle Canyon Monument
STR CTY : SILVER CITY, NM
END CTY : CHINLE, AZ
DLY MLS : 347 MILES TOT MLS : 2476
Done riding at 1:30 with 347 miles and 2476 overall. Chinle is a Navajo Reservation city and monument area. This morning I left town at 60 degrees and never got over 84, but felt chilled all day even when the sun shone. Left town and passed over the Continental Divide...my last one between the US and northern Alberta that I could ride to easily. I back tracked 75 miles on 191 and then went over the mountains above 8k' twice into AZ. I passed thru Alpine where I thought I had stayed, but no motel. On to Springville and Eagar where I found my abode of many years ago. Staying above 6k' I progressed north thru the Petrified Forest-Painted Desert National Park. Finally, I went back on the Navajo Reservation and after 100 miles of many small towns and shambles, got to my motel-HI, with no X. I rode the entire town and could not see any housing or district which indicated prosperity beyond subsistence living.. there must not be any significant work here. There are a lot of parallels with ZA - family males must work away ( my waitress's father worked in construction and her grandfather on the railroad) and the mish-mash of rural areas look like the tribal areas with vehicles. Went up the rim of the Canyon De Chelly. To go into the canyon one must hire an Indian jeep and driver. In areas there are people living in the bottom where there is water and they have crops. Sinus pain due to high winds again. Navajo food for dinner - fry bread sandwich of ham and turkey with veggies thrown in.
Day 7 - Friday - 5.30.14 into Utah and an area I reminisced about all year.
STR CTY : CHINLE, AZ
END CTY : ST GEORGE, AZ
DLY MLS : 514 MILES TOT MLS : 3270
Left by 7 AM at 60 degrees on 191 and in 71 miles crossed into UT. Turned onto 95 and toward the Powell ferry...it was closed, so I continued north to Hanksville and east on 24 to Torrey. I went over 7100' and down to 3700' at the Colorado River. Then into the canyon for 40 miles where I lost my back bag last year. Thot it was a lot longer as I rode 60 miles in the canyon when I had to back track for my utility bag I lost. A lady had picked it up and when I proved it was mine she sent it to me. Beautiful... The place I planned to eat was closed for lunch, but it was nice to see the owner. Turned south on 12 to Bryce Canyon and went over 9600' in the national forest near Coral National Park. I came across many people running south in a team of 12 runners in a 2 day 100 miles each day race - "Top of the Zion". Lunch in Escalante where M and I stayed years ago. I passed Bryce and headed south on 12 toward St George. I got to ride thru the south entrance of Zion National Park..fantastic canyons.. At this point the temperature went above the 60-80 range and finally rose to 99 degrees at the HIX. Haven't seen any wild animals except 2 deer and road kill. I was trying to find a raccoon for Marnie..ask her why. 514 miles in neat country and 3270 overall...good week and tomorrow to California. Iowa, Kansas, Colorado, New Mexico, Arizona, and Utah. Ended in Washington, AZ.
Week Two of Southwest and California. 2014
Day 8 - Saturday - 5.31.14 On to California ... Thru Death Valley..
STR CTY : ST GEORGE, AZ
END CTY : BISHOP, CA
DLY MLS : 423 MILES TOT MLS : 3476 MILES
423/3476 miles thru desert and more desert. Left early to beat the heat as it was 70 at 7 on I95 to LV. At 9 when I passed the Bundy’s at Bunkerville it turned 90. Gassed up north of downtown Las Vegas and moved on to Amargosa Valley where I gazed up at the station attached to a brothel. From there I went on 190 and into Death Valley starting about 2600' and 94 degrees. As I proceeded the elevation went down to -240 feet and temperature up to 104 degrees. As I headed for CA I went over 6k' and the temp dropped to 78 degs. As I stabilized at 3k' on 395 the temp ran in the 90s. Every landscape was desert regardless of the elevation or terrain. As I approached Lone Pine the Sierra Nevada's loomed high over 395. I rode along the mountains for 60 miles to Bishop where I am tonite. Nice to stop early to do the laundry... Upset with losing my Palm Highway program again.
Day 9 - Sunday - 6.1.14 Moving north in CA on hwy 395...
STR CTY : BISHOP, CA STR MLS : 15840
END CTY : BURNS, OR END MLS : 16418.0
DLY MLS : 577 MILES TOT MLS : 4093 MILES
TIME : 8 HOURS
I started at 5 to reconstruct Palm Highway data..on another Palm.. The cheapest gas in CA is $4.29 per gallon and mine was $4.69. 577 miles, never below 4000', over 8000' and never warmer than 80 degs. Left at 7 due to early arising and anxiety re Palm. Great and fast ride on the east side of the Sierra Nevada's in cool temps. Passed Lee Vining where I gassed on my way from SF to Ely last summer. Dipped into Nevada for Carson City and Reno, then back into California in the ranching areas all the way to the Oregon border. I see why they put the border where they did, as there is no agriculture in Oregon (the Great Basin) while CA has ag all the way to the border. In OR I passed several things they called lakes, but they were all dry..I do not remember them being dry the last 2xs I was here. Passed Paisley, of Cewaucan fame. 577 miles today / 4093 total. Oil added.
Day 10 - Monday - 6.2.14. Headed east toward home..
STR CTY : BURNS, OR STR MLS : 16418
END CTY : WEST YELLOWSTONE END MLS : 17001
DLY MLS : 578 MILES TOT MLS : 4631 MILES
TIME : 8.5 HOURS
578 and 4631 miles... Left at 7 as I lost time to Mountain time.. Above 4k' all the way to the west side of the Tetons where I rose to 6k'.. then 7000' at West Yellowstone to set up for a great ride tomorrow. Little time above 80 degrees. Traveled a new way in Oregon thru lots of irrigation farming and cattie for 200 miles. Just before Ontario and Boise ID the road dropped off 2k' and there started a 40 mile wide strip of intensive truck farming. Then I hit the interstate and after Boise I took off cross country on Hwy 20 going by the Craters of the Moon...another lava flow. This was a strong ag area except for the Craters area. I came out of the backcountry above Idaho Falls and 80 miles south of Yellowstone. Arrived for a free nite at HI. Most miles in a day ... Tired. Ribeye and salad with lots of blue cheese. ...and 2 Moose Drool beers. I saw a herd of antelope lying in a field... Air added - free oil from a lube place.
Day 11 - Tuesday - 6.3.14. Heading for Hwy 12 thru Yellowstone NP and Beartooth
STR CTY : WEST YELLOWSTONE STR MLS : 17001.0
END CTY : MILES CITY , MT END MLS : 17361.0
DLY MLS : 359 MILES TOT MLS : 4990 MILES
TIME : 6.5 HOURS
Fifth Continental Divide this year. Pass at 10k' .. Only 7 degrees above freezing this am. Off at 7:30 once it was close to 50 degs... And it did not rise thereabouts until Red Lodge. Went thru Yellowstone 89 miles and up to 8900 feet with much snow at high areas. Saw buffalo, elk, and more antelope. Came out at Cooke City and started on the Beartooth Highway. Went over 10.9k' in up to 12 foot walls of snow along the road. Very cold and nerve wracking cuz of rising and dropping thru hairpin turns. At Red Lodge the temp went to 74 and that held all the way even down to 2000' foot level in Miles City at 3:15 PM. 359 and 4990 miles. Paralleled the Yellowstone River once I left Red Lodge, MT very close to where it empties into the Missouri River. Will cross the Missouri in Mobridge, SD tomorrow. Ribs tonite at a great place at which I ate last August. Crossed Oregon, Idaho and Wyoming.. Getting ready to finish Montana
Day 12 - Wednesday - 6.4.14. Into and across South Dakota .. Hwy 12 to home.
STR CTY : MILES CITY , MT STR MLS : 17361.0
END CTY : MANKATO,MN END MLS : 18035
DLY MLS : 671 MILES TOT MLS : 5661 MILES
TIME : 10 HOURS
671 miles and 5661 overall.. Left in the cold 60s on neat country highways allowing 80 mph. 60 miles out a 60 mile wide area of clouds and dropping temperatures took over. An hour later with no rain, into the 70s and sunshine again. The whole area is dedicated to agriculture but a lot of the early fields were not planted until I passed Mobridge. I had been dreaming of a bakery since early am and I finally found a new one in Roscoe- ate to my heart’s content and went to say hi to grandma (1989) and grandma (1985) at the cemetery.. Headstone still looks straight. Got to Ipswich early and did not want to sit around, so I decided to continue to the border.. By 5 the temp was perfect and the winds subsided so I figured I'd move on and look for a motel...ended up in Mankato HIX... 287 miles home tomorrow. Ate at Five Guys tonite..not healthy but tasty and filling.
Day 13 - Thursday - 6.5.14. To HOME
STR CTY : MANKATO, MN STR MLS : 18035.
END CTY : HOME END MLS : 18319
DLY MLS : 282 MILES TOT MLS : 5943 MILES
TIME : 4..5 HOURS NOTES : WIND
Started with great temperature but at 75 mph I had a cross wind of 40 knots causing a struggling lean and buffeting. To Rochester to I90 to Mississippi to LaCrosse. Took 14 thru the country side and less wind thru Richland Center, Spring Green, and Mazomanie. 282 miles, total of 5943 total gps miles, and 6034 miles on odometer - 2:30 pm arrival.
