Friday, December 29, 2017




Kelzie’s School News 2017

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KELZIE'S FANTASTIC YEAR
Some years you kick the can further down the road, and some years the can goes sideways from one gutter to the other. When last we spoke, I was talking about how 2016 was the year I became a counselor. I had applied for PhD programs and I was legitimately excited for that process and the opportunities that awaited. I honestly thought that the can was going to go pretty far down the road.
The late January through early May period of 2017 was the longest, most defeating experience of my life. And at the end of it, I had less trust in my peers, less respect for some of the behemoths in my field, less surety about who I should be when dealing with other people - and two finished masters degrees (with straight As, natch), glowing supervisor evaluations, and in my more cynical moments, thoughts that my aptitude for counseling seemed not to count for much toward where I want to go in the long-term. 
The day after I turned down the one doctoral spot offered to me at a school that felt more like an anchor than wings, I signed up for a third graduate degree at IU just to fill the time. The licensure for counseling is like that of a medical doctor – beyond the academic degree that was one of my first masters, there are a few years of internship and the legal license – so without this third degree I am unemployable as a counselor under the law. But before I could stomach the idea of starting another degree in the same place, I had to get away for a while. In May my foot forced me back into the boot for the 6th? 7th? time since January 2016, but unlike Summer 2016 when I acquiesced and went on a road trip instead of heading overseas, I said screw it and got on a plane. I really needed to get away.
This summer was two months in Israel and Jordan, walking through history and bombs, all in a medical boot. Do you remember that scene in Shawshank Redemption when they find Andy’s “pick-axe” after he breaks out and it’s worn down to the nub? That’s what my boot looked like by August. I completed the “Yam El Yam” – translated to “Sea to Sea” – a 4-day, 75k hike from the Med. Sea to the Sea of Galilee. The best thing I can say about that hike is that it’s done and I never have to do it again. I walked the Valley of Tears, the site of the 1973 Yom Kippur War in the Golan Heights. I spent 4 days in Petra, refusing donkey rides from the Bedouins.
Jordan reminds me a lot of Thailand: a country that knows exactly why visitors go there, funnels those visitors to those exact spots, and extracts every bit of money possible for things associated with those spots. Still, Petra and Wadi Rum have to be seen to be believed, and Amman is the best laid-out, smoothest traffic, big capital city I’ve ever visited. Other than the nickel-and-diming, the biggest reason I wouldn’t go back is that Arab men living in a fully Arab culture, emboldened by sharia law, and I don’t exactly mesh well. Then again, American men living in fully American culture, emboldened by the Weinstein’s and Neon Cheeto’s of the world, and I don’t exactly mesh well either. It’s sad when I can feel like my rights are more eroded in my own country than in the part of the world where a woman can legally be owned.
And then Israel, oh Israel. Jews individually are nice people, but Israel as a country is an a$$hole. I realize that the Jewish religion lost millions of people in the mid-20th century in ghettos and concentration camps, but in the 21st century they have become the jailors, creating two country-sized ghettos, locking millions of people inside, and effectively waiting for them to die. Hitler would bemoan their inefficiency – but approve of their lack of empathy. I think that was my biggest take-away from Israel as a counselor: it is people gathered into a country unable to take the perspective of others and unable to feel empathy for Palestinians stuck in a horrible situation that the Jews helped create. A thought experiment: say someone leaves a home, but 20 years later they decide they want it back because they’ve had a hard time in their new home and remember their former home fondly and just…move into what is now your home in the middle of the night, bringing not only their immediate family but all of their distant relatives as well. How would you react? Would you welcome them with open arms, or would you fight back? And when you fight back and lose and they lock you in the windowless, airless pantry, how would you feel? You’d probably feel like the Palestinians – because that’s who you are in this thought experiment.
Israelis say you can’t trust Palestinians with a gun – but who gave them reason to attack and use it in the first place? Israelis call Palestinians “dirty uneducated monkeys” – but who cut off their running water and literally built a wall between them and schools? And where has this rhetoric been heard before? It mirrors what Hitler said to explain why Jews needed to be rounded up into his ghettos (and yes, what Americans said to withhold rights from freed slaves and their descendants). Sometimes those who learn – or even experience – history are still bound to repeat it.
I wanted to like Israel, I really did, but I can’t condone what they have done and continue to do. And before you @-me, travel there yourself and, unlike the vast majority of Westerners educated solely by the Israeli hype machine, actually visit Palestine, meet the people, and see the truth. At least in Palestine no one threatened or pointed a gun at me.
Peace in the Middle East will not be found at a conference table. A negotiated, polite peace is not possible between the jailors and those condemned to a life sentence. Ask the European Jews how they would have felt if they were told to just go home while the Nazi Party still existed – and were living in Jewish homes. A clear winner must be decided – for those living in the modern ghettos and for refugees living across the Jordan River since 1947/67/73/2005 – and that winner can only be decided in open combat when the Third (or Fourth or…) Intifada starts. Eventually the jailors and the prisoners will fight, and I imagine Lebanon, Syria, Jordan, and Egypt – and for a real treat, Indonesia as well – join the prisoners.
Oh and fun fact: the reason that Jerusalem has not been and should not be the capital of Israel is because it’s against international law. After the Six Day War in 1967, Jerusalem was declared to be shared by Israel and Jordan (and then Palestine), and the eastern portion illegally annexed by Israel in 1980 is not internationally recognized as a part of the Jewish state. It legally cannot be the capital of Israel because Israel doesn’t own it. It’d be like the US declaring all of Niagara Falls the capital of the US despite Canada owning and residing in half of the city. Just another law broken by the Neon Cheeto, just another day playing at being president.
After I returned from the Middle East, I attended my first big academic conference (APA) and prepared for the coming semester. This year my funding comes from teaching a class required of undergraduates on academic probation, and my clinical internship was at a local mental hospital helping clients with severe clinical mental health issues. But otherwise nothing else really changed about my life: play bells in the same choirs, play hockey with the same people, work the same jobs, and take classes from the same professors. I turned in all of my PhD applications, and now here I wait, again, but this time wondering exactly how excited I should be. I’m working to open a small, private practice in the Spring and if Ph.D. doesn’t work out, I’ll pivot to that full-time once I graduate in the summer. Here’s to hoping 2018 gets the can a little bit farther down the road.
Kelzie: 617/461-8354
800 North Smith Road - Apartment 2I
Bloomington, Indiana 47408


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MARNIE and RICK
After our celebrations of Christmas, including R’s sister Nancy, and New Years, M and R went to a winter retreat in Carpinteria CA- an avocado center 12 miles south of Santa Barbara (and now partially evacuated due to the Thomas fire thereabove). We joined a workout facility, borrowed a bike and travelled - to SF to visit Nepali friends, to Bakersfield and the Kern River oil fields, and to grandparent Bb’s house in Hollywood. We joined the Women’s March in SB and enjoyed the famous pier there, toured touristy Danish-themed Solvang and attended the organizational meeting for Indivisible Carpinteria, meeting activist Sarah Gore (Maiani). The weather was in the 70s and rained every other day-unusual but welcomed for drought stricken CA. In spite of the draw of the area, we experienced (mostly weather-related) burn out and left after 1 month to visit K and Bloomington friends on the way home. Mid-April we returned to Bloomington to help K deliberate grad school and plan the coming year. On to Hilton Head, we visited long-time friends Linn & Al, who was receiving hospice care and, sadly, passed away shortly thereafter. Our thoughts are with Lin. On the way home we attended IU’s Little 5 weekend.
With the arrival of Spring we put the gardens in order and returned to B-town to watch K turn her tassle(s) at IU’s graduation (2 Masters degrees earned after 3 years of toil). Mid-May R took a tour of Cape Cod by bike, early June we attended a friend’s wedding in the historic St. Anne’s Episcopal Church in Annapolis and mid-June R rode to a rainy Zydeco music festival in New Orleans. In late June R and brother Paul rode to Canada to travel the Cassiar Highway (staying at Bell II lodging) and to the Yukon, returning via the Alaskan Highway, across the north plains. On the way out they passed thru  the Beebe-Elford home area of Ipswich and Roscoe, SD. Early Aug R/M & K met in Blue Mound, IL so M could join her high school gymnastic team at the premier of Paul Sheriff’s documentary “Hali”, the story of his sister, Hali, his family and the very successful development of the BM gymnastics team, which started Marnie on her athletic career. Getting together with the gym team and attending the hometown Fall Festival made for a wonderful reunion experience. Soon after, Rick rode the Poudre Pass to Walden CO, Lander WY for Sacajawea’s grave, and the hwy 14-14a passes over the Big Horns to Sheridan and home. In Sept Paul and R rode to Bear’s Ears in Utah (over Moki Dugway..look it up) then across CO to the Poudre on the way home. Late Sept we attended R’s 55th HS class reunion-and in addition to the usual festivities we attended a Marshfield (WI) high school football game to recall what it was like 56 years ago at a Friday nite game. When R mentioned the last time he was at a HS game and played, the ticket lady sent us in free of charge.We loved the drama of the whole football/community event. It was great to see and reconnect with classmates and their mates again. 
In late Sept a Bb family friend from childhood, Jeannie Wooland Heideman, passed away 2ndary to cancer. We joined many friends and family to celebrate her life of giving, and we continue in thought for her husband, Ed.
Finally, in Oct R started a ride to FL, but age and cold weather blocked him in AL so he reversed to ride home. He had 4 major one-day rides this season – 1057 miles home from CC, 1050 from NO, 804 from WY and 707 from AL. The ’17 season was 21637 miles and a lifetime of 415500 miles since ’99. R was thinking it was time to stop riding… put his bike on the market… but after a day ride took it off the market … we shall see!
The critter problem was acute on Royal Oaks Drive this year and mostly rabbits ate half our perennials. M trapped and relocated to little avail. Again from afar, we have watched IU football, men’s soccer, and basketball through ups and downs and coaching changes. Men’s Soccer playing to the conference championship and NCAA final was especially encouraging (their only loss and only scored on 5 Xs all season). 
We have struggled hourly for nearly a year with the embarrassment and demise of america- enough said, but not enough. Our prayers are with those in Texas, Florida and especially Puerto Rico devastated by hurricanes and CA dues to fires. The Packer season created drama but disappointing outcomes and injuries-we are on IR as well.
Most of the fall was consumed with planning and obtaining proper docs and inoculations for the early 2018 month of volunteer work in Cambodia, 3 wks of travel in Vietnam, and 2 wk visit in Mongolia. Thanksgiving day was spent with friends as has been the tradition for years since Kelzie was in jrhi. The Christmas holiday was spent at home with the old folks coughing and sniffling and Kelzie on the couch recuperating from a busy fall semester. Sister Nancy was with us this year, as her work prevented her from traveling to her family in VT until the new year.
We have maintained our rehab sessions, daily gym workouts, and sessions with our trainers and feel better for having done so. Rick has had a very successful run on WW throughout the fall. We endeavored to end the year on a positive note, ringing in the New Year with friends and family and each going our separate way for new and exciting experiences in 2018.     Love to all

8906 Royal Oaks Drive
Verona, WI 53593
608/497-1123 hm

Happy New Year
Kelzie, Marnie & Rick
¯\_()_/¯




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Sunday, September 17, 2017

Utah and ear's Ears

Utah and Bear's Ears

BEARS EARS & UTAH
9.6-12.17 - WI, IA, MO, CO, UT, & CO 
 with Brother Paul 
Trip 3093 / ‘17 Total 15967+ 3294 = 19260
Life 409738 + 3294 = 413032 


Day: 1 Date: Wednesday 9.6.17
Str Cty: Home Str Mls: 41449 / 41650
End Cty: Columbus, NE End Mls: 42140
Dly Mls: 486 Tot Mls: 486
Time: 7:45 Notes: We changed our trip from 9.26 to tomorrow because of too many conflicts, once Paul got permission from his boss to be off causing rushed organization and packing. Left at 8:30 in 48 degree sunshine. Rode to Dubuque and caught Hwy 20 until Fort Dodge where we dropped down to Hwy 30 to Columbus and the HIx.  70 was high after 2:00. The corn was more mature here than at home, maybe an earlier variety. The housing in the country were very upscale, but not in the towns. State roads were very good all day. It is amazing- the size of commercial grain storage facilities all along the way, but more amazing was the number of grainers on farms so farmers can store their own grain to avoid storage costs and better sell over time when the markets are better.


Day: 2 Date: Thursday 9.7.17
Str Cty: Columbus Str Mls: 42140
End Cty: La Junta, CO End Mls: 42630
Dly Mls: 489 Tot Mls: 97
Time: 7 hrs 47 min Notes: 90 degrees at checkin. We rode every variety of road from interstate to county trunks- left on Hwy 30 in 50 degree weather. Then to I80 before going to the hinterland of fed and state Hwy 383/40 roads, ending up on a county road into La Junta and the HIx. As we progressed on our route the towns deteriorated and the farm housing was poorer than yesterday. I am wondering how many Dreamers live around here. 

After getting to western NE and into Colorado one could not see a tree, crops, or houses around the horizon- desolate landscape except where irrigation was possible. Had a troubled checkin and a second floor room away from the elevator- wrote the priority club. We gained 2400 feet today from 2000’ last nite. We saw at least half a dozen trains lined up going east, most hauling coal.

Day: 3 Date: Friday 9.8.17
Str Cty: La Junta, CO Str Mls: 42630
End Cty: Cortez, CO End Mls: 43016
Mls: 388 Tot Mls: 1363Time: 7:15 Notes: into the mountains and on to Mesa Verde National Park. Left at 7:34 and rose 2000’ in first 50 miles in desert to 4k’. Then rose 3800’ more to go over the 9800 pass east of Alamosa in comfortable 50-75 temperatures. Alamosa was 135 miles from La Junta on a 6k’ plain. Then we rose quickly over the Continental Divide at 10800 before dropping 3k’+ in less than 10 miles to a 7500 feet plateau thru Pagosa Springs, past Bayfied (where Lynne  M lives), and Durango. 10 miles out of Cortez we turn to take the 46 mile side trip in Mesa Verde NP to see the cliff dewellings and the Fairview rooms where marnie and I stayed years ago and went over 8400’ to get there. Got to Cortez HIx at 4:30 and again they had not read my requests again. Ribeye for dinner next door. We saw an eagle and many antelope today, otherwise we have seen no wildlife. Sprinkled on twice for short distance from rouge clouds

Day: 4 Date: Saturday 9.9.17
Str Cty: Cortez  Str Mls: 43015 
End Cty: Moab, UT End Mls: 43363
Dly Mls: 349 Tot Mls: 1712
Time: 6 hrs 10 min Notes: Mexican Hat, Bear’s Ears, Natural Bridges, the canyons, the Colorado river, Hanksville, and on to Moab. Left at 8 am  and rode to Mexican Hat on 160-162-261. In 8 miles with Paul leading we went up a cliff of 1400 feet with no forward progress. Four miles south of Hwy 95 we got the goods on Bear’s  Ears and turned on to Hwy 95 Natural Bridges. We drove the loop and Paul walked to see them. We were at 6k’, hot, and exertion caused me  to be light headed. We then moved on to the Colorado River, the canyons I like, and stopped at Hanksville. Then we took Hwy 24 for 50 miles to I70, 30 miles on I70 to 191 south to Moab. Temperatures started at 60 in the morning and to 88 degrees in Hanksville. Dinner at the Moab Brewery where I've always eaten. 

Day: 5 Date: Sunday 9.10.17
Str Cty: Moab, UT Str Mls: 43363
End Cty: Walden, CO End Mls: 43718
Dly Mls: 350 Tot Mls: 2062
Time: 6 hrs 10 min Notes: 82/86/9600 
Left at 7:45 and took Hwy 128 along the Colorado River for 50 miles and connected to I70 to and through Grand Junction and rejoined the river. We followed it all the way til we turned off in 120 miles at Wolcott. We needed gas but there were none for 50 miles. We rose 8200 and 9600 feet before getting gas. Since we were off route we ended up going to Steamboat Springs. Then we went above 9600’ on Hwy 40 - the second Continental Divide crossing. Took Hwy 14 30 miles to Walden and we are staying at the North Park motel, parking right in front of our room.. ..120$. Dinner at the River Rock restaurant for ribeye.





Day: 6 Date: Monday  9.11.17
Str Cty: Moab, UT Str Mls: 43718
End Cty: Columbus, NE End Mls: 44265
Dly Mls: 551 Tot Mls: 2613
Time: hrs 8 min 30 Notes: 10300 on the second Continental Divide and went down 5000’ in the next 30 miles and 4000’ more to  get to Columbus at 1200’. 4000’ at Moab and 8200’ in Walden last nite..slept well drugged.  Saw deer and a moose family, probably a dozen and a baby. Temperature was a problem..started at 44 degrees and coming off the mountain of 10300 and dropped 5000’ with increased so the temp rose to high 50s. Breakfast at McDonalds in Fort Collins. After 100 miles on 14 to I76 temps rose to the 80s. When we hit I70 the temp rose to 88-94 (struggled on) and stayed there for 275 miles to Columbus at 5:30. It was so hot and close we rode in long sleeved shirts instead of jackets. Talked with Marn to catch up on Nook.

Day: 7 Date: Monday  911.17
Str Cty: Columbus  Str Mls: 44265
End Cty: Home End Mls: 44743
Dly Mls: 481 Tot Mls: 3093
Time: 7 hrs  25 min Notes: 50-80 degrees… 
mpg=45…average speed = 64 mph. On the road at 8:00 in 50+ weather on Hwy 30. After 120 miles we found our road was blocked so we had to take 2.8 miles on a gravel road and then hit Hwy 20 east. We got to Dubuque at 2:30 and home at 4:30. In the last week the green of corn and beans has turned to harvest yellow, especially in southern NE and IA.

Columbus… La Junta, Co… Cortez to Mexican Hat…Mexican Hat to Kane Gulch Ranger Station (4 miles S of 95) to Bear’s Ears…. BE to Hanksville … Hanks to Moab… Along the Colorado River to Walden and 14 in Colorado…. To Columbus NE.. 




Lifetime = 413032 miles

‘17 Summer = 19260 miles 

Friday, July 14, 2017

Cassiar and the Yukon


Cassiar Highway - Yukon  
June 30- July 13, 2017 with Paul
Trip 6207/6290+6207= 12497 year
WI, MN, SD, MT, ID, BC, YUKON, ND and BACK    
Day: 1 Date: Wednesday 6.28.17
Str Cty: Home Str Mls: 35116
End Cty: home End Mls: 35250
Dly Mls: 126 Tot Mls: 126
Time: hrs min Notes: Mischlers 
Got tires, and oil service… adjusted running lite.

Day: 2 Date: 6.30.17
Str Cty: Home Str Mls: 35250
End Cty: Watertown, SD End Mls: 35705
Dly Mls: 461 Tot Mls: 461
Time: 7 hrs 30 min Notes: chilly and windy
Across Minnesota… Left at 8 after 2 1/2 pots of coffee. 10 in LaCrosse and noon at Kasson for gas.  (14 to I90 to Rochester)… 14 thru Rochester, Mankato and  New Ulum to Sleepy Eye to Redwood 67-68-21… Head wind all day so it was exhausting but gained 500’.  The crops in WI and MN looked very good, having plenty of rain. At our first stop at HIx in Watertown at 4:30. Rained on one ten minute period - soaked us. Salads at Applebys.
Day: 3 Date: 7.1.17
Str Cty: Watertown, SD Str Mls: 35705
End Cty: Miles City, MT End Mls: 36196
Dly Mls: 493 Tot Mls: 954
Time: 7 hrs 10 min Notes: across South Dakota to the Yellowstone River. On Hwy 12..the Yellowstone Trail. Gained 1500 ft to Miles City at 3:30. We left Watertown at 7:45 on Hwy 20 to 45  into Ipswich with temperatures in the 60s. We stopped for pictures and moved on to Roscoe for more pictures. The new high school is almost complete. The Presbyterian church has been dissolved. Elfords house looks ok as does their grave. Crops in eastern SD looked usually good. However, once across the Missouri River the crops were stunted particularly corn due to lack of rain and  the pastures and once cut alfalfa ground in burnt brown color. The Saffron fields looked bright yellow and okay. Going into MT the terrain changed to desert  tumbleweed, hill and cliffs of rock, and only pastures. By noon the temperatures moved thru the 80s, peaking at 92.5 degrees for the last 3 hours. We had a strong head winds all day.. 38 mpg. Paul almost got hit by  a doe and her two fawns crossing the road. We saw  a few prong horn antelope. Cooled off at the MC motel and ribeye at the Chop House for dinner. Last year when we went the other way on this route everywhere was bright green and there were birds everywhere…not today.



Day: 4 Date: Sunday 7.2.17
Str Cty: Miles City Str Mls: 36196
End Cty: Helena, MT End Mls: 36545
Dly Mls: 351 Tot Mls: 1305
Time: 5 hrs 30 min Notes: across Montana to the Missouri River and the Continental Divide. Started at 7:15 in hi 60 temps on I90 for 46 miles to Hwy 12. 250 miles on nice roads across the Little Belt  mountains. The trees started to appear, first the Russian olive and poplar, then the pines as  we rose in elevation. The pine forests were thick in places. Temps stayed below 82 until the last 30 miles into Helena when temps soared to 89.5 in beating sun at 4000 feet. We went over 5800 twice and then descended. The primary industry is ranching cattle and irrigated-market alfalfa. The ranches were very sparsely located so they had max acreage with little vegetation and brown unless irrigated; those fields looked very healthy. Stopped after 75 miles in Imgomar…1/4 miles on gravel..a few inhabitants in broken down residences and  many abandoned buildings and unassuming animals .. several rabbits hanging out, a family of hen prairie chicken with 5 chicks, and 4 porcupines in the town confines.. several rvs plugged in …everything else was closed. Several non descript rest stops, except White Sulfur Springs. Saw several prairie chickens, a dead elk, and several antelope. Got to HIx in Helena at 2:00 89.5 degrees at 4000 feet. We went for a swam and rested, then rode to the Capitol and on to the Silver Star for favorite blue cheese-calmari salad dinner. 





Day: 5 Date: Monday 7.3.17
Str Cty: Helena Str Mls: 36545
End Cty: Sandpoint, ID End Mls: 36850
Dly Mls: 300 Tot Mls: 1605
Time: 4 hrs 45 min Notes: up into Idaho down Clark Fork River to Lake Pend Orielle and Sandpoint HIx. On the road at 7:45 in 60 degree temperatures. We crested the Continental Divide at MacDonald Pass at 6325’. 48 miles to I90 to Missoula and north 50 miles to state road 200- Road to the Buffalos - along the Clark Fork River which empties into the Lake Pend Orielle. Temperatures climbed to the low 80s in the afternoon and were very comfortable. The trees are primarily pine with a few pine and the route shows little agriculture. Gained an hour and had a short ride so we got to HIx at 12:30 for a long rest. Took our bikes for a shower to get the bugs off…planned our route for tomorrow from Marnie's log of last year. We washed our bikes with a hose from the motel. We had dinner at Lou's next door- 60/40 hamburger/bacon combination. Listening to news.

Day: 6 Date: Tuesday 7.4.17
Str Cty: Sandpoint, ID Str Mls: 36850
End Cty: Kamloops, BC End Mls: 37239
Dly Mls: 403 Tot Mls: 2008
Time: 8 hrs in 11 hours Notes: into Canada thru the Kootenany over to the Columbia River and beyond to Kamloops. First we drove  2—95-1-3 into Canada at 60 miles. Then we went into the peaky mountain lake country and 110 miles to  the ferry. The ferry was closing the gate as we drove up…they wouldn't let us on… we had to wait 1.5 hrs - pissed. We rode north thru in the narrow valleys with  steep forested sides with beautiful blooming flowers along roads. We arrived at the second ferry for the Columbia River and waited one hour..pissed again cuz it was just pulling out. Rode the next mountain road to Revelstoke at 250 and got gas. Then the temp went to the 90s on CA1 -…trans Canada highway - with heavy traffic. Heat and concentration took a toll from the scenery, except we noticed the mountains were more western with less height and trees. At Kamloops HIx. Marnie was partying… went to DQ for hot dogs and blizzards. We rode thru the town of Kamloops and it is very odd and disorganized but a commercial center on the Thompson River with the TR university. We crossed the source of the Columbia River. Good roads all day!

Day: 7 Date: Wednesday 7.5.17
Str Cty: Kamloops Str Mls: 37239
End Cty: Fraser Lake End Mls: 37671
Dly Mls: 447 Tot Mls: 2455
Time: 7 hrs 15 min Notes: went beyond Prince George cuz we were early. Left 8 after a good nites sleep. Went on north 1 and 97 north. We finally stopped at the 8th Tim Hortons we've seen and got a donut at 100 miles. We rode along Fraser River and spotted a huge eagle as it took off close to Paul. Paul has been required to drink. We made PG at 2:00 and stopped at the Harley dealer who helped me repair my bike 17 years ago and who I visited 10 years ago. We moved on to Fraser Lake to shorten tomorrow's ride to Stewart, BC. The terrain went from hill desert to fir forests with many rivers and Temperatures never rose above the mid 80s but felt hotter in 3 one-lane construction stops. We took a room from Indian owner (India) that is terrible but in the right place. Dinner at local Mexican restaurant. Bad nite….

Day: 8 Date: Thursday 7.6.17
Str Cty: Fraser Lake Str Mls: 37671
End Cty: Bell II End Mls: 38032
Dly Mls: 363 Tot Mls: 2818
Time: 7 hrs Notes: up to Bell II on the Cassiar
Frustrated by our decisions on where to stay last nite and woke at 5 to escape.  We decided to stay at Bell for two nites rather than taking another chance on a poor choice. We  shall return to Stewart tomorrow. The temperature on the road was 41. After 45 miles we stopped in Burns Lake for ugly breakfast at A&W, but the coffee was great. We made the 200 miles to the bottom of 37/Cassiar by noon when the temperatures broke the 70s. On the way we came across the carcass  of a cow moose with an adolescent fox exploring it. We stopped down the road and the fox came to us, not veering off until 20 feet away. His tail was black unlike his brown body and it was 2/3 the length of his body. On the Cassiar we rode the 150 miles north at 50 miles per hour looking for moose, bear and deer. We saw the deer and only the fecal remnants of the bear along the road. The berms were a blanket of wild daisies interspersed with yellow flowers, and Queen Ann’s Lace with Indian Paintbrushes. We stopped at an Indian village which had many totem poles. On up the road we frequently saw bear poop on the edge. We stopped at the  junction of Stewart and the Cassiar to take sustenance. We are in a suite in a chalet. And the place has a free laundry so doing clothes. Had terrible ribs and small salad made from roadside veggies.

Day: 9 Date: Friday  7.7.17
Str Cty: Bell II - Stewart  Str Mls: 38032
End Cty: Stewart - Bell II End Mls: 38229
Dly Mls: 202 Tot Mls: 3020
Time: 4 hrs 15 min Notes: up at 6:30 by accident. Ten years ago when I rode the Cassiar and at Bell II I was the only motorcycle to be seen was mine.. last nite there had to be more than a dozen bikes here and many on the road. We rode to Stewart early to avoid the rain and got back at 2:30 to the sounds  of thunder in temperatures seldom above 70. Bell II is the second bridge on the Bell River we have been riding beside. We rode straight to Stewart and thru to Hyder. Hyder is an abandoned disaster. We passed the harbor log setup area for Chinese ship loading. Stewart has icy redeeming  qualities and offered a nice Brunch at the toaster museum. On the way in we saw a two tone Woodchuck. On the way home we saw a small bear and stopped, but as we tried to take a picture a car started by and chased  into the woods. We were surrounded by high mountains of the Skeena Mountain range with snow and some glaciers on the way to Stewart. Bell II  is a heliski resort-area in the winter going by helicopter to the tops of the mountains with 5 skiers at a time. They pay $10000 for room, board, and skiing 10000 vertical feet in a week- Last Frontier. Late afternoon sandwich while we watched the rain. There were many high and hanging glaciers. We had dinner salad and hit the bed early for an early escape. Since Bell II has free laundry, every price of clothing has been freshly washed. Our plan is to go to Watson Lake on the Alaskan highway and head for Dawson Creek and the the Icefield road to Banff. There we shall make a decision..to Boise or across northern North Dakota. The helicopters at Bell II were taking supplies to powerline workers or in the mountains. 

Day: 10 Date: Saturday 7.8.17
Str Cty: Bell II Str Mls: 38229
End Cty: Fort Nelson End Mls: 38853
Dly Mls: 634 Tot Mls: 3654
Time: 11 hrs Notes: rain … beautiful  
Up at 6, breakfast at 7 and on the road at 7:20. Moved slowly thru the mountains and got gas at Dease Lake (25 mile long lake) with a stop at Jade City going over 4200 feet at one point. About 40 miles before the Yukon border the terrain flattened and we entered a 25 mile long area of burn within the last several years.  The burn was so big as to not be fightable. As we turned on to The Alaska Highway going east it began to rain. We stopped to see the Signs Park - substantial increase in signs from all over and posted than 2 previous trips. We forgot about gas and found it with less than 80 miles to go in the middle of nowhere.. luckily we found gas! At one point in the Rockies the mountains were  sheer rock with small valleys and with very few trees, prone to avalanches or severe runoff when the snow is melting. We encountered 10 Bears and a sow with 3 cubs, 2 deer, at least 50 bison, 2 prong horn antelope, 4 female caribou and one with a calf, and a Mountain Goat. We eventually went back to the mountains, the Rocky Mountains this time and we went over the divide at above 4220 feet. Morning temperatures were below 55 degrees until Watson Lake, then on to mid 60 later in the afternoon with a short peak of 71 degrees. It sprinkled on us 4 different times in the last 100 miles before our arrival at the Super 8 in Fort Nelson. Pizza at the Boston Pizza restaurant next door.

Day: 11 Date: Sunday  7.9.17
Str Cty: Fort Nelson, BC Str Mls: 38853
End Cty: Grande Cache, AB End Mls: 39329
Dly Mls: 480 Tot Mls: 4134
Time: 7 hrs 30min Notes: in Grande Cache
Up at 5:30 and left at 7:00 in 60 degree temperatures. Temp did not go above 62.5 until noon. A cow Moose crossed the road in front of us and her calf followed…typical of their shyness we did not get a concentrated view. We went thru Dawson Creek about noon. Sleepy riding on the road so several stops for liquid and peeing.  There was no agriculture until Grande Prairie and the first farms were beautiful. And at GP the oil and gas industry, coal mines-power stations, timber and heavy industry started. We were bushed by the time we got to Grande Cache and opted to bed down at the Alpine Motel. We had a great steak and salad followed by Cinnabon with ice cream at a local steak place. Smoke from the fires in BC could been seen but not smelled.

Day: 12 Date: Monday   7.10.17
Str Cty: Grande Cache Str Mls: 39329
End Cty: Lethbridge, AB End Mls: 39856
Dly Mls: 531 Tot Mls: 4665
Time: 9 hrs Notes: slept late..up at 7:30
We went to the A&W (a breakfast place in Canada) for breakfast and the guy who was nice to us last eve at dinner was there with his cronies giving us the devil..so we invited them to Missouri.  Rode nice hilly, curving roads 100 miles to Jasper. Paul saw 3 caribou and I saw an Elk. Then we entered the Park at no cost due to the Canada Birthday. Up til then we were in low 60s temps. It rose a bit on Hwy 43 in the park before it began raining and with each period of rain the temp dropped 18 degrees to 61. We went over 7000’ and 6400’ in the glacial areas and with each rise the temperature lowered. We stopped at Lake Louise for gas and to see the hotel and lake and then rolled on. 16 miles out to LL it rained like hell so we pulled under an animal overpass. When it started to hail cars stopped in the cover and blocked both lanes of traffic.  We got them moving again by yelling at them. We took off when it was only rain. As we passed Banff it started hailing again and was very painful on the hands. We were rained on at least 10 times between Banff-Calgary-Lethbridge. We were able to reservations at the Lethbridge HI and rolled in about 7:30. Dinner at the hotel and we learned that in Canada you can only get a hamburger well done (no medium rare)

Day: 13 Date: Tuesday   7.11.17
Str Cty: Lethbridge Str Mls: 39856
End Cty: Williston, ND End Mls: 40369
Dly Mls: 517 Tot Mls: 5182
Time: 7 hrs 30 min Notes: boom town..
Left at 7 to get gas and tire air. 60 miles to the border and 100 miles to Hwy 2 east at Shelby. Dry conditions and all the fields are brown except for winter and spring wheat and irrigation. The fields are so flat with unbelievable fallow fields, and the rest is wheat. The wheat is very short for the level of maturity. The number of elevators and grain bins is amazing..one place had 32 bins lined up. Early temps were in the low 60s, on Hwy it went to 70s and the last 2 hours were over 86 degrees and insufferable. I made the reservation at Williston HIx accidentally for last nite and they did not have room when we got there.  They referred us over to the Ramada Inn for 113$.  We are hoping for a refund from last nites expense. Williston is the Bakken boomtown and is much improved since I came thru 2 years ago. Most of the temporary housing is closed and unused or for sale and many new apartment buildings for rent or purchase. New roads are being built and the town looks renewed even outside the city boundaries with many franchises. We rode in view of the trees along the Missouri River for over 100 miles… we were just 25 miles from the junction of the Missouri and Yellowstone rivers, where Lewis and Clark reunited.



Day: 14 Date: Wednesday   7.12.17
Str Cty: Williston Str Mls: 40369
End Cty: Bemidji, MN End Mls: 40815
Dly Mls: 442 Tot Mls: 5625
Time: 6 hrs 30 min Notes: miserable cold and rain.
Up at 6 and on the road at 7:30 to beat the heat….no heat. 61 degrees when we left and when we got in..went to 68 for 1/2 hr in Grand Forks. Misted all day but never total drenching rain. Hwy 2 is 4 lane thru ND and MN and a good road. ND was green and healthy looking. The fields were huge, 1000 acres of wheat and safflower plants. It looks like the Bakkan is in a bust cycle now - the temporary housing complexes are uninhabited or for sale and huge tankers are parked in several huge lots . The tanker fields are handled by Embridge, the pipeline people (DAPL). I lost the left lens of my glasses.

Day: 15 Date: Thursday   7.13.17
Str Cty: Bemidji Str Mls: 40815
End Cty: Home End Mls: 41323
Dly Mls: 512 Tot Mls: 6137 gps riding/6267 bike gps
Time: 8 hrs Notes: total distance odd= 6197
Ave speed = 58..61moving mph / mpg = 44 / left at 7:30 in the overcast mist and rode like madmen on Hwy 2 in 61 degree weather to Duluth-Superior for our first stop. We got gas and headed down Hwy 53 to 29 to Abottsford and on to Marshfield for gas and lunch break as the temperatures finally rose to 70 degrees. After the 130 miles to Madison it was in the mid 80s and I got home at 4:30. Good riding but a miserable day…

Day: 16 Date: Wednesday   7.19.17
Str Cty: Home-service Str Mls: 41323
End Cty: Service-home End Mls: 41449
Dly Mls: 126 Tot Mls: 6323
Notes: 42000 service again.